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A dinner reservation at White Gold has replaced the Bugaboo stroller as the Upper West Side’s ultimate status symbol. But that doesn’t mean this place is in any way stuffy—like all of superstar chef April Bloomfield’s joints (see p. ###), White Gold has a breezy informality, taken to new extremes here. You see, the restaurant’s name refers to a particularly prized cut of beef, appropriate since half of the operation is an actual butcher shop (supplying the public, and Bloomfield’s other eateries with sustainably raised, hoof-to-tail meats). Frankly, I was challenged by where to put this one, price-wise, because while breakfast and lunch here are affordable (and terrific, especially the roast beef sandwich for $9, which comes dressed with horseradish, red wine-butter and pickled red onions) at dinner if you order filet mignon, or one of the other top cuts, your meal will be as pricey as those at the snootiest places in town (though, likely, better). To keep even dinner doable, share the mains, which tend to be gigantic and heavy, since Bloomfield isn’t shy about fats: the exquisite porschetta has crackling the size of Pringles potato chips and the layered potatoes are double-fried in beef fat, and so addictive you’ll keep eating them long after your stomach has cried “Uncle”.