Planning a Trip

Come to New Brunswick with a strategy in mind; the key points are not close to one another, and there are no superspeedways to get you from here to there quickly. If you're drawn to rugged beauty, you should plan to focus on the Fundy Coast with its stupendous dropping tides, rocky cliffs, and boreal landscape. This part of the coast actually feels a lot more remote and northerly than the more densely settled (and tamer-looking) northeastern coast.

Those interested in Acadian history or sandy beaches, on the other hand, should veer toward the Gulf of St. Lawrence and its fishing heritage and laid-back feel. And those who want to sip a pint to the strains of traditional music and shop at a great farmer's market should swing through Saint John and its lovely associated fishing towns.

Those simply interested in hurrying through the province to get to Prince Edward Island or Nova Scotia . . . well, you've turned to the wrong chapter of this book. But take at least a day anyway to detour down through Fundy National Park, visiting Cape Enrage and Hopewell Rocks, which number among eastern Canada's more dramatic attractions. If nothing else, you'll agree that New Brunswick should never be completely written off on any tour of eastern Canada.

Visitor Information

New Brunswick publishes several free annual directories and guides that are helpful in planning a trip to the province, including Experience New Brunswick, with listings of attractions, accommodations, campgrounds, and multiday and daylong adventure packages, as well as an official New Brunswick travel map. Contact the New Brunswick Department of Tourism and Parks, P.O. Box 12345, Campbellton, NB E3N 3T6 (tel. 800/561-0123; www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca).

The province staffs seven official visitor information centers; most cities and larger towns also have their own municipal information centers. A complete listing of phone numbers for these centers can be found in the Experience New Brunswick guide, or look for "?" direction signs on the highway. Phone numbers and addresses for the appropriate visitor information centers are provided in each section of this chapter.

Getting There

By Car and Ferry -- The Trans-Canada Highway bisects the province, entering from Québec at St. Jacques. It follows the Saint John River Valley before veering through Moncton and exiting into Nova Scotia at Aulac. The entire distance is about 530km (329 miles).

The fastest route from New England to southwestern New Brunswick is to take the Maine Turnpike to Bangor, then head east on Route 9 to connect to Route 1 into Calais, which is just across the river from St. Stephen, New Brunswick. A more scenic variation is to drive to Campobello Island across the bridge from Lubec, Maine, then take a ferry to Deer Island, drive the length of the island, and board a second ferry to the mainland. Those headed to Fredericton or Moncton will speed their trip somewhat by following U.S. I-95 to Houlton, then connecting with the Trans-Canada after crossing the border.

Bay Ferries (tel. 888/249-7245; www.nfl-bay.com) operates the 3-hour ferry known as the Princess of Acadia that links Saint John with Digby, Nova Scotia. The ferry sails year-round, with as many as three crossings daily each way in summer. One-way summer fares in 2007 were C$40 (US$36/£20) for adults, C$30 (US$27/£15) for seniors, C$25 (US$23/£13) for children ages 6 to 13, C$5 (US$4.50/£2.50) per child under 6, and C$80 (US$72/£40) and up per vehicle; all fares are cheaper in the off season, and you also get a discount if you buy a ticket to complete a round-trip within 30 days. Reservations are advised.

By Air -- The province's main airports are at Fredericton (the provincial capital), Saint John, and Moncton, all of which are chiefly served by Air Canada (tel. 888/AIR-CANA; www.aircanada.com) and the major car-rental companies. Continental (tel. 800/523-FARE; www.continental.com) now also flies nonstop from Newark, New Jersey's, Liberty International Airport to Moncton.

By Train -- Canada's government-operated national rail line, VIA Rail (tel. 888/842-7245; www.viarail.com), offers train service through the province from Montréal (on the way to Halifax) 6 days a week (no Tues) year-round. The train follows a northerly route with stops in Campbellton, Miramichi, and Moncton. Check out the website for more details on routes, schedules, and stopping times in New Brunswick, and online booking.

By Cruise Ship -- Yes, indeed, you read that correctly. In the summer of 2007, the popular Carnival Cruise Lines outfit (tel. 888/CARNIVAL; www.carnival.com) unveiled a series of 4-day weekend summertime cruises from New York City to the Bay of Fundy and back. Optional shore excursions during the day and night at port in Saint John have previously included a bike tour of local covered bridges, visits to a dairy farm, kayak trips around the bay, and a visit to the Moosehead Brewery. Another limited schedule of the cruises will continue in the summer of 2008; contact the cruise line to book a cabin or for more information.