When to Go

The well-worn joke about the climate in New England is that it has just two seasons -- winter and August. There's a kernel of truth in it, but it's mostly a canard to keep outsiders from moving here. In fact, the ever-shifting seasons are elements that make New England so distinctive, and with one exception, the seasons are long and well defined.

Summer -- Peak summer season runs from July 4th to Labor Day. Vast crowds surge into New England during these two holiday weekends; the level of activity remains high throughout July and August.

It should be no surprise that summers are exquisite. Forests are verdant and lush; the sky can be an almost lurid blue, the cumulus clouds painfully white. In the mountains, warm (rarely hot) days are the rule, followed by cool nights. Along the coast, ocean breezes keep temperatures down and often produce thick, soupy fogs that linger for days.

For most of the region, midsummer is the prime season. Expect to pay premium prices at hotels and restaurants. The exception is around the empty ski resorts, where you can often find bargains. Also, be aware that early summer brings out black flies and mosquitoes in great multitude in woodsy northerly areas of the region, a state of affairs that has spoiled many north-country camping trips.

Autumn -- Don't be surprised to smell the tang of fall approaching as early as mid-August, when you'll also notice a few leaves turning blaze-orange on the lush maples at the edges of wetlands. Fall comes early to New England, puts its feet up on the couch, and stays for some time. The foliage season begins in earnest in the northern part of the region by the third week in September; in the south, it reaches its peak by mid-October.

Fall in New England is one of the great natural spectacles of the United States. With its rolling hills tarted up in brilliant reds and stunning oranges, fall is garish in a way that seems determined to embarrass understated Yankees. Just keep in mind that this is another popular time of year to travel -- bus tours flock like migrating geese to New England in early October. As a result, hotels are often booked solid. Reservations are essential. Don't be surprised if you're assessed a foliage surcharge of $20 or more per room at some inns.

Some states maintain recorded foliage hot lines to let you know when the leaves are at their peak: call Maine (tel. 800/MAINE-45), New Hampshire (tel. 800/258-3608), or Vermont (tel. 802/828-3239).

Winter -- New England winters are like wine -- some years are good, some are lousy. During a good season, mounds of light, fluffy snow blanket the deep woods and fill the ski slopes. A good New England winter offers a profound peace and tranquillity. The muffling qualities of fresh snow bring a thunderous silence to the region, and the hiss and pop of a wood fire at a country inn can sound like an overwrought symphony. During these winters, exploring the forest on snowshoes or cross-country skis is an experience bordering on magical.

During the other winters, the lousy ones, the weather brings a nasty mélange of rain, freezing rain, and sleet. The woods are filled with nasty, crusty snow, the cold is damp and numbing, and it's bleak, bleak, bleak.

The higher you go in the mountains, and the farther north you head, the better your odds of finding snow. Winter coastal vacations can be spectacular, but it's a high-risk venture that could yield rain rather than snow.

Naturally, ski areas are crowded during the winter months. They're especially so during school vacations, when most ski resorts take the rather mercenary tactic of jacking up rates at hotels and on the slopes.

Spring -- Spring lasts only a weekend or so, often around mid-May, but sometimes as late as June. One day the ground is muddy, the trees barren, and gritty snow is still collected in shady hollows. The next day, it's in the 80s, trees are blooming, and kids are swimming in the lakes. Travelers must be very crafty and alert if they want to experience spring in New England. This is also mud season, and many innkeepers and restaurateurs close up for a few weeks for repairs or to venture someplace warm.