Planning a Trip

Don't let maps of the Atlantic Provinces fool you. Newfoundland (and sometimes Labrador) is commonly published as an inset map alongside Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and New Brunswick, which makes it look smaller than the aforementioned. But carefully check out the scale. Whereas an inch might equal 30km (19 miles) in Nova Scotia, it might be 60 or 70km (37 or 43 miles) in Newfoundland. This is a big place, and the amount of time to travel anywhere on the island goes up accordingly. In fact, the island has about the same landmass as Pennsylvania (which is pretty decent-sized), and even that's misleading because it's all twisted and pulled as though made of taffy, and thus seems bigger, higher, longer, and more time-consuming when you're actually traveling it from one end to another. An example: The peninsula that extends northward along the west coast takes 8 to 9 hours to drive from Port aux Basques (where the ferry from Nova Scotia docks) to the tip at St. Anthony's -- no Sunday drive, and one that requires planning and decision-making beforehand.

So you need to extend your time here. A weekend in this province isn't even in the realm of the possible. A couple of weeks is enough for a bare-bones tour of the island, though you'll still be frustrated by all that gets left out. You're better off selecting a few regions and focusing on those.

For those arriving by ferry, try this itinerary: If you've got less than a week, you should come and go via Port aux Basques and focus on Gros Morne National Park, which is usually the highlight of a stay here, especially for outdoor-oriented travelers. If you're planning on at least 2 weeks, arrive on and leave The Rock from opposite ports, completing a traverse of the island.

For those arriving by air, St. John's is well situated for exploring the wonderful Avalon Peninsula, and the intriguing Bonavista Peninsula isn't too distant. If you have your heart set on venturing to Gros Morne or beyond, though, plan to spend a couple of weeks more -- or be prepared to spend some serious hours behind the wheel. It's about 7 to 8 hours driving from St. John's to the national park. The best option in that case would be to fly in to St. John's and depart via Deer Lake if you can arrange it.

Weather & Time

The weather in Newfoundland can charitably be called "mercurial." You might well experience all four seasons during a weeklong trip to the place -- from decently warm and sunny days (the average high temperature in summer is about 70°F/21°C) to downright frigid ones (it can dip into the range of 40°F/4°C or lower on summer evenings). If you have a rain suit, bring it. When the rain pairs up with the high winds, the results can be, well, less than comforting. If you have sweaters, bring a few. Shorts? Only for hiking, mate.

Note that Newfoundland keeps its own clock. The "Newfoundland time zone" is a half-hour ahead of Atlantic time (which the rest of the Atlantic provinces keep) and 1 1/2 hours ahead of Eastern Standard (that is, New York) time.

Visitor Information

Visitor information centers aren't as numerous or well organized in Newfoundland as they are in Nova Scotia or Prince Edward Island, where every small community has a place to stock up on truckloads of pretty color brochures. In Newfoundland, you're better off stocking up on maps and information either in St. John's or just after you disembark from the ferries, where excellent centers are maintained.

The Newfoundland and Labrador Travel Guide, published by the province's department of tourism, is hefty and helpful, with listings of all attractions and accommodations. Request a free copy before arriving by calling tel. 800/563-6353. You can also request it by e-mail (tourisminfo@mail.gov.nf.ca) or regular mail (P.O. Box 8700, St. John's, NL A1B 4J6). The guide is available on the ferries and at the province's information centers.

Newfoundland is also better wired than you might expect when it comes to the Internet, and many residents and businesses maintain websites -- a big help when trying to cobble together your travel plans.

Getting There

Air transportation to Newfoundland is typically through Gander or St. John's, although scheduled flights are also available to Deer Lake and St. Anthony. Flights originate in Montréal, Toronto, Halifax, and London, England. Airlines serving the island include Air Canada (tel. 888/AIR-CANA; www.aircanada.com), Air Labrador (tel. 800/563-3042; www.airlabrador.com), and Provincial Airlines (tel. 800/563-2800 or 709/576-1666; www.provincialairlines.ca). Flight time from Toronto to St. John's is about 3 hours. Calgary-based WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com) also connects St. John's with Halifax and Toronto.

Marine Atlantic (tel. 800/341-7981; www.marine-atlantic.ca) operates a year-round ferry service from North Sydney, Nova Scotia, to Port aux Basques, with as many as four sailings each way daily during the peak summer season. The crossing is about 5 hours; one-way fares are C$28 (US$25/£14) adults, plus C$78 (US$70/£39) for an automobile. A seasonal ferry (mid-June through late Sept) also connects North Sydney with Argentia on the southwest tip of the Avalon Peninsula. Remember that this crossing is offered only three times per week, in summer only, and takes 14 to 15 hours. The one-way fare is C$77 (US$69/£39) adults, C$160 (US$144/£80) for regular-size vehicles. On both ferries, children 5 to 12 years old ride for half-price, and the ride's free for children under 5.

Sailing by Night -- You may find it more convenient to take an overnight ferry from North Sydney to Port aux Basques; the ferry sails most nights of the week, departing around midnight and arriving early in the morning. Of course, you'll need to pay extra for your bunk bed or private cabin -- but you'll also wake up refreshed for the long drive ahead. In 2007, dormitory-style bunks cost C$16 (US$14/£8) per person and private cabins (which sleep four passengers) cost C$99 (US$89/£50). Check with Marine Atlantic ferries for the latest details and fares of the sleeper service.

If you're traveling between the two landmasses, a much shorter ride on the MV Apollo connects Blanc-Sablon, Labrador, with St. Barbe, Newfoundland. The one-way trip takes 20 minutes and costs C$7.50 (US$6.75/£3.75) for adults, C$6 (US$5.40/£3) for students, and C$23 (US$21/£12) for autos. Call tel. 866/535-2567 for more information.

For all ferries, advance reservations are strongly advised during the peak travel season. The terminals all have snack bars, restrooms with free showers, television lounges, and up-to-date facilities.

Getting Around

To explore the countryside, you'll almost certainly need a car (bus service is sporadic). Major rental companies with fleets in St. John's include Avis (tel. 800/879-2847 or 709/722-6620), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000 or 709/726-1791), Hertz (tel. 800/263-0600 or 709/722-4333), Thrifty (tel. 800/367-2277 or 709/722-6000), and Rent-A-Wreck (tel. 800/239-7990 or 709/753-2277). Many of these car-rental chains, as well as some small independent outfits, rent cars in other gateway communities in the province such as Corner Brook, Deer Lake, Happy Valley-Goose Bay, and Port aux Basques; consult the visitor guide or call the rental chains directly for details about some of these other locations.

Sock away some extra cash for gasoline when traveling the island, however: The price of fuel on Newfoundland tends to be a bit higher than in other Atlantic Provinces.