Active Pursuits

Biking

Bike touring in Newfoundland is not for the out-of-shape. It's not that the hills here are necessarily brutal (though many are). It's the weather that can be downright demoralizing. Expect more than a handful of blustery days, complete with horizontal rains that seem to swirl from every direction and can bring forward-pedaling progress to a standstill. The happiest bike tourists seem to be those who allow themselves frequent stays in motels or inns, where they can find hot showers and places to dry their gear.

Freewheeling Adventures, P.O. Box 100, Norris Point, NL A0K 3V0 (tel. 800/672-0775 or 902/857-3612; www.freewheeling.ca), runs van-supported trips based in hotels and B&Bs. Its Viking Tour of the northern coast of Newfoundland is a week of pure pleasure; it costs C$2,000 to C$2,400 (US$1,800-US$2,160/£1,000-£1,200), depending on whether you use their guides or make up your own itinerary. Lodging is included in both plans, but the full monty includes all your meals, equipment rental, van transfers, a bonus fjord boat trip, and a whale/iceberg-watching boat trip in the package. Needless to say, go for that one. Freewheeling offers a similar 8-day tour of the Avalon Peninsula (very near St. John's) as well.

Aspenwood Tours, P.O. Box 622, Springdale, NL A0J 1T0 (tel. 709/673-4255), arranges mountain-biking trips in and around the central sections of Newfoundland.

Bird-Watching

If you're from a temperate climate, bird-watching doesn't get much better than in Newfoundland and Labrador -- the province is home to some of the most concentrated bird populations on the continent (and in the world). Seabirds typically attract the most attention, and eastern Newfoundland and the Avalon Peninsula are especially rich in bird life. Just south of St. John's, offshore from Route 10, near Deer Lake, is Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (tel. 709/635-4520), a cluster of several islands hosting the largest colony of breeding puffins and kittiwakes in the western Atlantic. On the southern Avalon Peninsula, Cape St. Mary's features a remarkable sea stack that's home to a cacophonous colony of northern gannets.

Camping

In addition to the two national parks, Newfoundland maintains a number of provincial parks open for car camping. (About a dozen of these were "privatized" in 1997 and are now run as commercial enterprises, although many still appear on maps as provincial parks.) These are all listed in the provincial travel guide, where you'll also find information about most of the province's private campgrounds.

Pit Stop: "Gravel-Pit" Camping on The Rock -- Campgrounds can be in short supply in remote areas of Newfoundland, and if you're properly equipped, you might want to try out a traditional activity known as "gravel-pit camping" (which the official tourism office officially discourages). Basically, this means pulling over to the side of the road -- typically in a gravel pit or parking lot -- and spending the night away from organized campgrounds. (Always ask permission first.) You'll see gravel-pit campers from time to time around the island, often in beautiful and dramatic spots overlooking coves or ponds. So long as you don't pitch your tent or park your RV right in someone's driveway, you usually won't be hassled -- and you might be entertained by the curious local folks who show up to say hello and suss out the passers-through.

Canoeing

A glance at a map shows that rivers and lakes abound in Newfoundland and Labrador. Canoe trips can range from placid puttering around a pond near St. John's to world-class descents of Labrador rivers hundreds of miles long. The Department of Tourism produces a free brochure outlining several canoe trips; call tel. 800/563-6353. A popular guide to provincial canoeing is sold in bookstores around the province.

Fishing

Newfoundland and Labrador are legendary among serious anglers, especially those stalking the cagey Atlantic salmon, which can weigh up to 18kg (40 lbs.). Other prized species include landlocked salmon, lake trout, brook trout, and northern pike. More than 100 fishing-guide services on the island and mainland can provide everything from simple advice to complete packages that include bush-plane transportation, lodging, and personal guides. One fishing license is needed for Atlantic salmon and one for other fish, so be sure to read the current Newfoundland & Labrador Hunting and Fishing Guide closely for current regulations. It's available at most visitor centers, or by calling tel. 800/563-6353. To request it by mail, write the provincial tourism office at P.O. Box 8700, St. John's, NL A1B 4J6.

Hiking & Walking

Newfoundland has an abundance of trails, but you'll have to work a bit harder to find them here than in the provinces to the south. The most obvious hiking trails tend to be centered around national parks and historic sites, where they are often fairly short -- good for a half-day's hike, rarely more. But Newfoundland has hundreds of trails, many along the coast leading to abandoned communities. Some places are finally realizing the recreational potential for these trails, and are now publishing maps and brochures directing you to them. The Bonavista Peninsula and the Eastport Peninsula, both on Newfoundland's east coast, are two areas that are attracting attention for world-class trails that were all but overlooked until recently.

The best-maintained trails are at Gros Morne National Park, which has around 100km (62 miles) of trails. In addition to these, there's also off-track hiking on the dramatic Long Range for backpackers equipped to set out for a couple of days. Ask at the park visitor center for more information.

Sea Kayaking

With all its protected bays and inlets, Newfoundland is ideal for exploring by sea kayak. But there's a catch: the super-frigid water. There's a reason you'll see icebergs offshore: It's called the Labrador Current. You'll need to be well prepared in the event you end up in the drink, because you won't have a lot of time for a rescue before the cold gets you in its grip. Experts traveling with their own gear can pick and choose their destinations; the area northeast of Terra Nova National Park, with its archipelago centering around St. Brendan's Island, is one great choice.

Novices should stick to guided tours. The aforementioned Aspenwood (tel. 709/673-4255) in Springdale does half- and full-day guided paddles and rentals, in addition to its mountain-biking options; Eastern Edge Kayak Adventures (tel. 866/782-5925 or 709/773-2201) offers tours and clinics of 1 day and up, mostly on the Avalon Peninsula.

Coastal Safari (tel. 877/888-3020 or 709/579-3977; www.coastalsafari.com), based in St. John's, is a similar outfitter offering extended paddling tours from May through the end of August. Its eponymous 8-day "coastal safari" begins with a pickup from the St. John's airport on a Saturday, then includes 5 days' paddling in and out of an Avalon Peninsula base camp, plus several overnights in the St. John's area and Harbour Mille. All kayaks, transport, food (and wine, if you wish), camping gear, and even snorkels are included in this package. You sleep in tents with comfortable support pads or bed-and-breakfast inns. Contact Coastal for latest prices and schedules.

At Terra Nova National Park, 2-hour sea kayak tours leave from the Marine Interpretation Centre to explore protected Newman's Cove.