Active Pursuits

Biking -- Bike touring in Newfoundland is for the hearty. It's not that the hills are necessarily brutal (although many are). But the weather can be downright demoralizing. Expect more than a handful of blustery days, complete with horizontal rains that seem to swirl around from every direction. The happiest bike tourists seem to be those who allow themselves frequent stays in motels or inns, where they can find hot showers and places to dry their gear. Aspenwood Tours, P.O. Box 622, Springdale, NF A0J 1T0 (tel. 709/673-4453), arranges mountain biking trips in and around central Newfoundland; Freewheeling Adventures, R.R. 1, Hubbards, NS B0J 1T0 (tel. 800/672-0775 or 902/857-3600), runs van-supported trips based in hotels and B&Bs. Its Viking Tour is a week of pure pleasure.

Bird-Watching -- If you're from a temperate climate, bird-watching doesn't get much more interesting or exotic than in Newfoundland and Labrador. Seabirds typically attract the most attention, and eastern Newfoundland and the Avalon Peninsula are especially rich in bird life. Just south of St. John's is the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where several islands host the largest colony of breeding puffins and kittiwakes in the western Atlantic. On the southern Avalon Peninsula, Cape St. Mary's features a remarkable sea stack just yards from easily accessible cliffs that's home to a cacophonous colony of northern gannets.

Camping -- In addition to the two national parks, Newfoundland maintains a number of provincial parks open for car camping. (About a dozen of these were "privatized" in 1997 and are now run as commercial enterprises, although many still appear on maps as provincial parks.) These are listed in the provincial travel guide, as are most privately run campgrounds.

If you're properly equipped, you might want to take part in a traditional activity in Newfoundland called "gravel-pit camping." Basically, that means pulling over to the side of the road (typically in a gravel pit) and spending the night away from organized campgrounds. You'll see gravel-pit campers all over the island, often in beautiful and dramatic spots overlooking coves or ponds. Although there's no law guaranteeing public access as there is in some Scandinavian countries, it's a hallowed tradition, and as long as you don't pitch your tent or park your RV in someone's driveway, you usually won't be hassled.

Canoeing -- A glance at a map shows that rivers and lakes abound in Newfoundland and Labrador. Canoe trips can range from placid puttering around a pond near St. John's to world-class descents of Labrador rivers hundreds of miles long. The Department of Tourism produces a free brochure outlining several canoe trips; call tel. 800/563-6353. A popular guide -- Canyons, Coves and Coastal Waters -- is sold in bookstores around the province, or it can be ordered by mail from Newfoundland Canoe Association, 13 Brett Place, Mount Pearl NF A1N 3B4 (tel. 709/729-0365).

Fishing -- Newfoundland and Labrador are legendary among serious anglers, especially those stalking the cagey Atlantic salmon, which can weigh up to 18kg (40 lbs.). Other prized species include landlocked salmon, lake trout, brook trout, and northern pike. More than 100 fishing-guide services on the island and mainland can provide everything from simple advice to complete packages that include bush-plane transportation, lodging, and personal guides. One fishing license is needed for Atlantic salmon, one for other fish, so be sure to read the current Newfoundland & Labrador Hunting and Fishing Guide closely for current regulations. It's available at most visitor centers, or by calling tel. 800/563-6353 or 709/729-2830. To request it by mail, write the provincial tourism office at P.O. Box 8700, St. John's, NL A1B 4J6.

Hiking & Walking -- Newfoundland has an abundance of trails, but you'll have to work a bit harder to find them here than in the provinces to the south. The most obvious hiking trails tend to be centered around national parks and historic sites, where they are often fairly short -- good for a half-day's hike, rarely more. But Newfoundland has hundreds of trails, many along the coast leading to abandoned communities. Some places are finally realizing the recreational potential for these trails, and are now publishing maps and brochures directing you to them. The Bonavista Peninsula and the Eastport Peninsula, both on Newfoundland's east coast, are two areas that are attracting attention for world-class trails that were all but overlooked until recently.

The best-maintained trails are at Gros Morne National Park, which has around 100km (60 miles) of trails. In addition to these, there's also off-track hiking on the dramatic Long Range for backpackers equipped to set out for a couple of days. Ask at the park visitor center for more information.

More adventurous hikers will find enjoyment by just pulling over and setting off across one of the island's vast and intriguing bogs, following a compass heading out and back. These areas are spongy, but you'll rarely sink through the peat. Waterproof shoes will increase your enjoyment, and the phrase "bogged down" will be rather more evocative for you in the future.

Sea Kayaking -- With all its protected bays and inlets, Newfoundland is ideal for exploring by sea kayak. But there's a catch: the frigid water. There's a reason you'll see icebergs offshore, and it's called the Labrador Current. You'll need to be well prepared in the event you end up in the drink, because you won't have a lot of time for a rescue before the cold gets you in its grip. Experts traveling with their own gear can pick and choose their destinations. I would suggest that the area northeast of Terra Nova National Park, with its archipelago centering around St. Brendan's Island, would hold up well under close scrutiny.

Novices should stick to guided tours. Eastern Edge Outfitters (tel. 709/782-5925) offers a variety of tours, mostly on the Avalon Peninsula. Rates start at C$60 (US$48) for a half-day tour and C$110 (US$88) for a 1-day tour, and go up to C$540 (US$432) for a 6-day South Coast tour with meals and equipment included. Sea Kayaking with Whitecap Adventures (tel. 709/726-9283) is based in St. John's and leads paddling tours at Witless Bay, Cape Broyle, and Conception Bay, with prices starting at about C$40 (US$32) for a 2-hour sunset paddle. Extended tours and customized trips may be arranged. Coastal Safari (tel. 877/888-3020 or 709/579-3977), also based in St. John's, is a similar outfitter.

At Terra Nova National Park, 2-hour sea kayak tours leave from the Marine Interpretation Centre and explore protected Newman's Cove.