Restaurants

The Atticus Bookstore & Café (1082 Chapel St.; tel. 203/776-4040), what many call the best bookstore in town, devotes half its space to a lunch counter, tables, and a takeout section locally famous for its scones. It's open daily from 8am to midnight.

The New Haven Pizza Wars -- On the scene for most of the last century, Frank Pepe, 157 Wooster St. (btw. Olive and Brown sts.) (tel. 203/865-5762; www.pepespizzeria.com), has long laid claim to the local pizza crown in the face of substantial competition. In exchange for almost unimaginably thin-crusted pies, pilgrims put up with long lines, nothing decor, and an often sullen staff the management prefers to think of as "seasoned." A big fave is the white clam pie.

You can do every bit as well at Sally's, 237 Wooster St. (tel. 203/624-5271), just down the street. Many knowledgeable pizza lovers believe that Modern Apizza, 874 State St. (tel. 203/776-5306; www.modernapizza.com), holds the edge over both.