Union League Café

Frommer's Review

A grand salon that retains an air of the site's aristocratic origins, which date back to 1854 -- even the name fairly shrieks of the spot's former status as a bastion of WASP privilege, the Union League Club. Things have loosened up considerably, and denim-clad Yalies, their doting parents, philosophizing profs, and deal-making execs are all equally comfortable here. With waiters in aprons and tables covered with butcher paper, the atmosphere is now closer to an updated French brasserie than to that of a gentlemen's sanctuary. Entrees on the order of cod and sweet-potato brandade, saffron monkfish, and braised veal cheeks seem both familiar and fresh. A daily cheese card is proffered instead of, or in addition to, dessert, and the wine list is almost exclusively French. Service is informed and proficient.

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