Bentara

At this location since 1997, Bentara now finds itself benefiting from a surge in gentrification to its once shabby street. Bare teak tables occupy the spare, roomy front; the back room has tableclothed tables and a second bar. Shadow puppets hang behind opaque panels; carved fertility figures stand along one wall. Billed as Malaysian, the menu encompasses Thai, French, and Vietnamese ingredients and techniques as well. Expect punchy, often fiery flavors, not for those with timid palates. Ikan goring pedas, for example, is a memorable golden-fried whole fish in a sweet-spicy sauce; precede it with the pan-simmered mussels in a coconut-curry sauce with slivered onions and red peppers.

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