Getting to Know New Orleans

How to Make Like the Locals Do

We are so proud of you. Not for you the "I went to New Orleans but I never got off Bourbon Street" refrain. Not for you any old tourist trap, or maybe even any other tourist. You want to make like the locals do. Having said that, by and large this book avoids tourist traps, and while it won't help you avoid tourists, it does feature many a spot that has prompted many a local to say, "You've got that place in there?! No one knows about that!" (Not to blow our own horn or anything.) But here are a few more residents-only suggests that, in addition to a few specific venues, featured elsewhere in this guide, have their own traditional following. Be aware that making like a local sometimes means heading into areas that will prompt your cabdriver (yes, take a cab if you don't have your own car) to shake his or her head about your foolhardy behavior. Ignore them, though do please be cautious. Here, in no particular order:

Po' Boys at Gene's -- This is an authentic dive, which, for New Orleans, is about as authentic as it gets. It may be a little too local for you, so just plan to get food to go (it's not really eat-in, anyway). Much of the roof was ripped away by Katrina, and they flooded, but a year later, they had bravely reopened. All you get at Gene's are po' boys, but oh, that's all you need. Particularly when the po' boy is the classic house-made Creole hot sausage and cheese (American cheese, please!), fully dressed. Divine. Gene's also offers a roast beef po' boy and a hamburger, but that's it for menu options. No chips, no dessert. One drink comes with your generously sized sandwich. Five dollars total. Don't you feel local already? Gene's is at 1040 Elysian Fields.

Fried Chicken at McHardy's -- When beloved friends of ours married, they served fried chicken from McHardy's, 1458 N. Broad St., at their wedding reception. And you know what? No fancy-pants expensive, catered extravaganza had better food. It's some of the best fried chicken we've ever eaten -- moist, tender, slightly crispy skin, perfectly seasoned, and only 50¢ a piece.

A Real Gospel Brunch -- Speaking of church, forget the so-called "Gospel Brunch" at the House of Blues. Go see the real thing in a real place of worship, like the Guiding Light Missionary Baptist Church, 2012 Washington Ave. (tel. 504/891-7654). It's humble, but it's right and true, and the singing of the choir (not to mention the sometimes-fiery preaching) is what it's all about. And boy, do they have things to sing about these days. You may well be the only nonparishioner there, but the congregation is always welcoming. Worship begins at 7am on Sunday, but you don't need to be there before 8:30am. Remember to put some of those dollars you saved by not going to the HOB into the collection plate, but also note that said plate is passed early and often, so pace your giving.

For a different musical religious experience, take in Sunday 10am Mass at historic St. Augustine's. Located in the heart of the Treme, and the home church for many a famous local musician -- Sidney Bechet was a parishioner -- St. Augustine's holds frequent jazz Masses, with a number of local high-profile musicians participating. But even the regular weekly Masses are celebrated with New Orleans-related music and cultural color. Call ahead for details, especially to see if charismatic former pastor Fr. LeDoux is making a rare appearance in the pulpit. St. Augustine's is at 1210 Gov. Nichols St. (tel. 504/525-5934; www.staugustinecatholicchurch-neworleans.org.)

Crescent City Farmers Markets -- This is the collective name for the weekly produce (and other foodstuffs) wonderlands in various city locales. It's the place to commune with local gourmands. You may not want to cart home fresh produce, though sampling in season is always a pleasure, but you can bring home some powerful Creole cream cheese, fresh breads and biscuits, and other regional treats. Local chefs do demonstrations (crawfish-and-shrimp quesadillas!), and gourmet snacks are on sale as well. The markets are held on Tuesday from 9am to 1pm in the Uptown Square parking lot at 200 Broadway and Saturday from 8am to noon at 700 Magazine St. For more info, go to www.crescentcityfarmersmarket.org.

Snake & Jake's Christmas Club Lounge -- Tiny. Cramped. Full of Christmas twinkle lights and locals drinking and some out-of-towners, also drinking, because they consider it their own local lounge when they come to town.

Kermit Ruffins & the Barbecue Swingers -- Every Thursday night, Kermit Ruffins, he of the smooth trumpet and gravelly, Satchmo-inspired voice, plays at Vaughan's Lounge. Because this is his home turf, he feels much freer here, and his sets veer away from tourist-pleasing, conservative performances to looser repertoires. And because his band is called the Barbecue Swingers, and because he loves to cook, he often makes free barbecues before the shows.

Super Sunday -- All year long the Mardi Gras Indians work on their elaborate suits of hand-sewn beaded mosaics and feathers, creating concoctions that would make even over-the-top designer Bob Mackie burst into tears of helpless envy. And once a year they meet on their home turfs to compete, with chants, drums, and costumes, to prove once and for all which tribe is the most glorious and who is the prettiest. All that work for nothing but honor, pride, and beauty. Watching them parade and square off is one of the great sights of New Orleans, and hardly anyone goes. Perhaps that's because of the location (the Uptown Indians start and end at the corner of Washington Ave. and LaSalle St.; the Mid-City tribes start around Bayou St. John and Orleans Ave.; in both cases, just drive around looking for feathers and listening for drums); perhaps it's because the Indians are supposed to parade on the Sunday closest to St. Joseph's Day (Mar 19), but that's only if the weather is good (rain and wind are hard on feathers: "Ever seen a wet chicken?" one Indian pointed out) and if the Indians feel like it. We don't know what will happen to this tradition, because the Indians were from the neighborhoods worst hit by the flood, so whoever does return is all the more worth celebrating. Take your chances because it's a sight you won't see anywhere else.