Attractions

A common sentiment voiced in the days immediately following Katrina was "I wish I had gotten to New Orleans again/for the first time before this happened." The implication is that New Orleans is no longer that place the speaker wished to visit. And that's sort of true -- and yet absolutely not. By some act of grace, the most notable -- from a visitor's perspective -- and historic portions of New Orleans, the French Quarter and the Garden District (along with much of the rest of Uptown), were not flooded and escaped serious storm damage. With few exceptions, one is hard-pressed to find any major Katrina damage to a noteworthy (or even minor) attraction in these areas. Within the two most prominent neighborhoods, all but a few significant sights have reopened, including several fine museums and the city's world-class aquarium and sweet zoo, though ongoing budget problems have prevented others from reopening. While it is true that a geographical majority of New Orleans remains either in uneasy flux, in ruins, or in stasis, these areas were never on the ordinary visitor's path. Virtually all of what the average tourist would want to see not only survived the disaster, but also -- 3-plus years later -- doesn't look as though anything happened to it at all. Its very existence makes it all the more precious. So go see it.

Still, our favorite New Orleans activities involve walking, eating, listening to music, and dancing. If instead of sightseeing, that's all you do while you're visiting the town, we won't complain. At least you are here, and it is still here, and that may be enough for now.

But some people feel guilty if they don't take in some culture or history while they're on vacation. And all the local attractions do need the visitors in order to stay open. Besides, there will be occasions when you'll need to escape the rain or heat!

Frankly, New Orleans itself is one big sight -- it's one of the most unusual-looking cities in America, and being nice and flat, it's just made for exploring on foot. So get out there and do it.

Don't confine yourself to the French Quarter. Yes, it certainly is a seductive place, but to go to New Orleans and never leave the Quarter is like going to New York, remaining in Greenwich Village, and believing you've seen Manhattan. Make sure you also take time to stroll the lush Garden District, marvel at the oaks in City Park, ride the streetcar down St. Charles Avenue and gape with jealousy at the gorgeous homes, or go visit some gators on a swamp tour. And yes, if you like, go and see the ruined neighborhoods; it's the only way to comprehend the extent of the disaster.

But if you leave the Quarter only to visit clubs and restaurants, we won't blame you a bit.