When to Go

With the possible exception of July and August (unless you happen to thrive on heat and humidity), just about any time is the right time to go to New Orleans, particularly now. Mardi Gras is, of course, the time of year when it's hardest to get a hotel room, but it can also be difficult during the various music festivals throughout the year, especially the Jazz & Heritage Festival.

It's important to know what's going on when; the city's landscape can change dramatically depending not just on what festival or convention is happening, but also what happens with recovery efforts, and prices can also reflect that. The best time of year, in our opinion, is December, before and during Christmas. The town is gussied up with decorations, there are all kinds of seasonal special events, the weather is nice -- but for some reason, tourists become scarce. Hotels, eager to lure any business, lower their rates dramatically, and most restaurants are so empty that you can walk in just about anywhere without a reservation. Take advantage of it.

The Weather

In 2005, weather in New Orleans became international news. Given that the media trumpets about hurricane season (June 1 to some time in Nov, depending on whom you talk to), tourists may be anxious about visiting during those months. Obviously, there are no guarantees, but remember that hurricanes, while unpredictable, don't happen too terribly often.

The average mean temperature in New Orleans is an inviting 70°F (20°C), but it can drop or rise considerably in a single day. (We've experienced 40°F/4°C and rain one day, 80°F/27°C and humidity the next.) Conditions depend primarily on two things: whether it rains and whether there is direct sunlight or cloud cover. Rain can provide slight and temporary relief on a hot day; for the most part, it hits in sudden (and sometimes dramatically heavy) showers, which disappear as quickly as they arrived. Anytime the sun shines unimpeded, it gets much warmer. The region's high humidity can make even mild warms and colds feel intense. Still, the city's semitropical climate is part of its appeal -- a slight bit of moistness makes the air come sensually alive.

New Orleans should be pleasant at almost any time of year except July and August, which can be exceptionally hot and muggy. If you do come during those months, you'll quickly learn to follow the natives' example, staying out of the noonday sun and ducking from one air-conditioned building to another. Winter is very mild by American standards but is punctuated by an occasional cold snap, when the mercury can drop below the freezing point. Then again, "unpredictable" is the watchword. In 2004 August brought some of the most beautiful summer days in living memory, with temperatures more appropriate to fall. And then October came and brought heat and humidity the likes of which are usually found during the dog days of summer. And Jazz Fest that year? It was cold at night and perfectly balmy every single day. And between hurricanes Katrina and Rita in 2005, not a drop of rain fell.

In the dead of summer, T-shirts and shorts are absolutely acceptable everywhere except the finest restaurants. In the spring and fall, something a little warmer is in order; in the winter, you should plan to carry a lightweight coat or jacket, though umbrellas and cheap rain jackets are available everywhere for those tourists who inevitably get caught in a sudden, unexpected downpour. Also note that many restaurants are overzealous with air-conditioning, so bring those light wraps along on warm nights just in case.

Tip: Hot Time in the City -- If you can stand it, do consider braving the summer; apart from conventions, the town is often slow, which produces secret hotel bargains. On a recent July visit, high-end hotels were offering rooms from $59-$129 (way, way below their regular rates), sometimes with additional bargains (like breaks on parking fees) built in. You can also often get upgrades to fancy suites for a song -- ask when you check in. The past couple of years local restaurants have run "COOL-inary" specials during August, three course meals for set fees like $20.07 or $30.07. Yeah, it's hot and humid, though maybe not as much as you might think, but for the most part, you can travel from air-conditioned place to air-conditioned place with minimal discomfort. In fact, the biggest climate problem can sometimes be the overcompensation with AC that chills restaurants to near-meat locker temps!