When to Go

With the possible exception of July and August (unless you thrive on heat and humidity -- and some really exceptional hotel deals!), just about any time is the right time to go to New Orleans. Mardi Gras is, of course, the time of year when it's hardest to get a hotel room, but it can also be difficult during the various music festivals throughout the year, especially the Jazz & Heritage Festival.

It's important to know what's going on when; the city's landscape can change dramatically depending on what festival or convention is happening and prices can also reflect that. We love the warm, jasmine-infused nights and warmer days of mid-fall, and even relish the occasional high drama of a good thunderstorm. But the best time of year may just be December. The town is gussied up with decorations, there are all kinds of holiday special events, the weather is nice -- but for some reason, tourists become scarce. Hotels, eager to lure any business, lower their rates dramatically, and most restaurants are so empty that you can walk in just about anywhere without a reservation. Take advantage of it.

The Weather

The average mean temperature in New Orleans is an inviting 70°F (21°C), but it can drop or rise considerably in a single day. (We've experienced 40°F/4°C and rain one day, 80°F/27°C and humidity the next.) Conditions depend primarily on whether it rains and whether there is direct sunlight or cloud cover. Rain can provide slight and temporary relief on a hot day; it tends to hit in sudden (and sometimes dramatically heavy) showers, which disappear as quickly as they arrive. In unimpeded sun it gets much warmer. The high humidity can intensify even mild warms and colds. Still, the semitropical climate is part of New Orleans's appeal -- the slight moistness makes for lush, sensual air.

New Orleans should be pleasant most of the year except July and August, which can be exceptionally hot and muggy. During those bargain months, follow the natives' example: stay out of the noonday sun and duck from one air-conditioned building to another. June and September can still be humid and warm; early spring and mid-fall are glorious. Winter is mild by American standards but is punctuated by an occasional freeze-level cold snap. But unpredictable and flexible are the watchwords. The whims of the weather gods are at play, so be ready to adjust accordingly.

Hurricane season runs June 1 to mid-November. Obviously, there are no guarantees, but despite their unpredictability and the high drama of recent years, hurricanes actually don't happen too terribly often. In the dead of summer, T-shirts and shorts are absolutely acceptable everywhere except the finest restaurants. In the spring and fall, something a little warmer is in order; in the winter, you should plan to carry a lightweight coat or jacket and pack a folding umbrella (though they're available everywhere, as are cheap rain jackets, for those who get caught in an unexpected downpour). Also note that many restaurants are overzealous with air-conditioning, so bring those light wraps along even on warm nights.

Hot Time in the City -- If you can stand it, do consider braving the summer; the town is often slow, which produces hotel bargains. On a recent July visit, high-end hotels were offering rooms from $59 to $129 (way, way below their regular rates), sometimes with additional perks thrown in. You can often get upgrades to fancy suites for a song -- ask when you check in. The past few years local restaurants have run "COOL-inary" specials during August and September, three-course meals for set fees, under $20 for lunch and under $35 for dinner. Yeah, it's hot and humid, but bearable for all but the most sensitive, and there are plenty of air-conditioned respites to duck into. In fact, the biggest climate problem can sometimes be the air-conditioning overcompensation that chills rooms to near-meat locker temps!