Getting There

By Plane

Among the airlines serving the city's Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY) are America West (tel. 800/235-9292; www.americawest.com), American (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/525-0280 or 504/581-2965; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com), Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com), US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com), and United (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com).

The airport is 15 miles west of the city, in Kenner. You'll find information booths scattered around the airport and in the baggage claim area, as well as a branch of the Travelers Aid Society.

With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you'll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and he or she will probably whisk you to the front of the line.

Bring a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver's license or passport, and if you've got an e-ticket, print out the official confirmation page; you'll need to show your confirmation at the security checkpoint, and your ID at the ticket counter or the gate. (Children under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights, but the adults checking in with them need them.)

At press time the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) recommended practicing the 3-1-1 rule for getting carry-on baggage through security without problems: Liquids or gels must be in a 3-ounce bottle (or smaller); items must be stored in a 1-quart clear, plastic zip-top bag; 1 bag per passenger is allowed in the screening bin. Prescription medications, baby formula, and breast milk in amounts greater than 3 ounces may be carried on, but they must be declared. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a "personal item" such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it's still considered a personal item. For more information on restricted and nonrestricted items, check the website for the TSA (www.tsa.gov) for details.

In 2003 the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you're using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. If you're checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines' kiosks; again, call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, though some airlines are now charging for it (around $2-$3). However, a few airlines still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go.

At press time the TSA is also recommending that you not lock your checked luggage so screeners can search it by hand if necessary. The agency says to use plastic "zip ties" instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- International visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Getting Into Town from the Airport -- From the airport, you can get to your hotel on the Airport Shuttle (tel. 504/522-3500). For $15 per person (one-way), the van will take you directly to your hotel. There are Airport Shuttle information desks (staffed 24 hr.) in the airport. Shuttles now go to the French Quarter, Garden District, Central Business District, and Faubourg Marigny.

Note: If you plan to take the Airport Shuttle to the airport when you depart, you must call a day in advance and let them know what time your flight is leaving. They will then tell you what time they will pick you up. You can also book and pay for a round-trip in advance.

A taxi from the airport to most hotels will cost about $29 for one to two people; if there are three or more passengers, the fare is $12 per person plus a $2 gas surcharge.

If you want to ride in style from the airport to your hotel, try New Orleans Limousine Service (tel. 504/529-5226). Express transfer service for a six-passenger limo is $125.

From the airport, you can reach the Central Business District by bus for $1.60 (exact change required). Buses run from 6am to 6:30pm. From 6 to 9am and 3 to 6pm, they leave the airport every 12 to 15 minutes and go to the downtown side of Tulane Avenue between Elks Place and South Saratoga Street; at other times, they leave every 23 minutes. For more information, call the Regional Transit Authority (tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com).

By Car

You can drive to New Orleans via I-10, I-55, U.S. 90, U.S. 61, or across the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway on La. 25. From any direction, you'll see the city's distinctive and swampy outlying regions; if you can, try to drive in while you can enjoy the scenery in daylight. For the best roadside views, take U.S. 61 or La. 25, but only if you have time to spare. The larger roads are considerably faster.

It's a good idea to call before you leave home to ask for directions to your hotel. Most hotels have parking facilities (for a hefty daily fee); if they don't, they'll give you the names and addresses of nearby parking lots.

AAA (tel. 504/367-4095; www.aaa.com) will assist members with trip planning and emergency services.

Driving in New Orleans can be a hassle, and parking is a nightmare. It's a great city for walking, and cabs are plentiful and not too expensive, so you really don't need a car unless you're planning several day trips.

Nevertheless, most major national car-rental companies are represented at the airport.

By Train

As with the interstates and highways into New Orleans, the passenger rail lines cut through some beautiful scenery. Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245] or 504/528-1610; www.amtrak.com) trains serve the city's Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Ave.

The New Orleans train station is in the Central Business District. Plenty of taxis wait outside the main entrance to the passenger terminal. Hotels in the French Quarter and the Central Business District are just a short ride away.