Getting Around

You really don't need to rent a car during your stay in New Orleans. Not only is the town just made for walking (thanks to being so flat -- and so darn picturesque), but most places you want to go are also easily accessible on foot or by some form of the largely excellent public transportation system. Indeed, we find a streetcar ride to be as much entertainment as a practical means of getting around. At night, when you need them most, cabs are easy to come by. Meanwhile, driving and parking in the French Quarter bring grief. The streets are narrow and crowded, and many go one way only (this is easily the most confusing city we have ever driven around in and we've driven in Rome). Street parking is minimal (and likely to attract thieves), and parking lots are fiendishly expensive.

Sure, everything takes a bit longer when you are depending on the kindness of strangers to get around, but driving and parking headaches take time, too, and are not conducive to a pleasant vacation. Besides, you need to walk off all those calories you'll be ingesting!

By Public Transportation

Discount Passes -- If you won't have a car in New Orleans, we strongly encourage you to invest in a VisiTour pass, which entitles you to an unlimited number of rides on all streetcar and bus lines. It costs $5 for 1 day, $12 for 3 days. Many visitors think this was the best tip they got about their New Orleans stay and the finest bargain in town. Passes are available from VisiTour vendors -- to find the nearest one, ask at your hotel or guesthouse or contact the Regional Transit Authority (RTA; tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com). You can contact the RTA for information about any part of the city's public transportation system.

Buses -- New Orleans has an excellent public bus system, so chances are there's a bus that runs exactly where you want to go. Local fares at press time are $1.25 (you must have exact change in bills or coins), transfers are an extra 25¢, and express buses are $1.25 (or you can use a VisiTour unlimited pass). You can get complete route information by contacting the RTA (tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com) or by picking up one of the excellent city maps available at the Visitor Information Center, 529 St. Ann St., in the French Quarter.

Streetcars -- Besides being a National Historic Landmark, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar is also a convenient and fun way to get from downtown to Uptown and back. Unfortunately, the overhead system was badly damaged by Katrina, and the route is only coming back in stages. The first section to return travels only from Canal to Lee Circle, with the next stretch to Napoleon to be up and running by the end of 2007. The entire line should be completed by mid-2008. In the meantime, the iconic green cars survived fine and have been transferred to the newer Canal and riverfront lines . There is presently a bus that serves the St. Charles route. When restored to full service, the streetcars run 24 hours a day at frequent intervals, and the fare is $1.25 each way (you must have exact change in bills or coins). Streetcars can get crowded at rush hour and when school is out for the day. Board at Canal and Carondelet streets (directly across Canal from Bourbon St. in the French Quarter) or anywhere along St. Charles Avenue, sit back, and look for landmarks or just enjoy the scenery.

The streetcar line extends beyond the point where St. Charles Avenue bends into Carrollton Avenue. The end of the line is at Palmer Park and Playground at Claiborne Avenue, but you'll want to mount a shopping expedition at the Riverbend shopping area. It will cost you another $1.25 for the ride back to Canal Street. It costs 10¢ to transfer from the streetcar to a bus.

The riverfront streetcar runs for 2 miles, from the Old Mint across Canal Street to Riverview, with stops along the way. It's a great step saver as you explore the riverfront. The fare is $1.50, and there's wheelchair ramp access (but not on the St. Charles line).

The Canal Street streetcar line started running just in time for Jazz Fest 2006. Naturally, all of the spiffy new air-conditioned bright red cars flooded, hence the use of the historic green cars on this line. Be sure to check the destination sign, because one branch, Cemeteries, only goes there (to several of the older cemeteries, in fact), while the other, labeled either City Park or Beauregard Circle, is the one you want if you are taking it to Mid-City, City Park/the New Orleans Museum of Art, or Jazz Fest. Be prepared for jammed cars during Jazz Fest, because the line runs to within a few blocks of the fairgrounds. If your destination is strictly Canal Street/Carrollton, any of the cars will take you there. One-way fares are $1.25.

A Bus Named Desire -- "They told me to take a streetcar named Desire and then transfer to one called Cemeteries and ride 6 blocks and get off at Elysian Fields!"

Although Blanche's directions wouldn't actually have gotten her to Stella and Stanley's house (Tennessee Williams fiddled with streetcar lines to make his metaphor work), there were indeed once streetcars called Desire and Cemeteries. The signs indicated their ultimate destinations -- a street and a district, respectively. However, Blanche's later question, "Is that streetcar named Desire still grinding along the tracks?" must now be answered "no." (Unless we are still using that metaphor.)

The streetcar in question, which used to run through the French Quarter along Bourbon and Royal streets, has, like all but two of its brethren, been replaced by buses. That means you can't take a whirl on the legendary streetcar (though Cemeteries was revived in 2004!), but you can still ride buses called Desire.

By Car

If you must have a car, try one of the following car-rental agencies: Avis, 2024 Canal St. (tel. 800/331-1212 or 504/523-4317; www.avis.com); Budget Rent-A-Car, 1675 Canal St. (tel. 800/527-0700 or 504/565-5600; www.budget.com); Dollar Rent-A-Car, 1910 Airline Hwy., Kenner (tel. 800/800-4000 or 504/467-2285; www.dollar.com); Hertz, 300 Poydras Street (in the Loews Hotel; tel. 800/654-3131 or 504/568-1645; www.hertz.com); or Alamo, 225 East Airline Hwy., Kenner (tel. 888/826-6893 or 504/469-0532 www.goalamo.com).

Rental rates vary according to the time of your visit and from company to company, so call ahead and do some comparison shopping. Ask lots of questions, try different dates and pickup points, and ask about corporate or organizational discounts (such as AAA or frequent-flier-program memberships). And if you're staying for a week or more, be sure to ask about weekly rates, which are cheaper.

To rent a car in the United States, you need a valid driver's license, a passport, and a major credit card. The minimum age is usually 25, but some companies will rent to younger people and add a surcharge. It's a good idea to buy maximum insurance coverage unless you're positive your own auto or credit card insurance is sufficient. Stick to the major companies because what you might save with smaller companies might not be worth the headache if you have mechanical troubles on the road. Rates vary, so it pays to call around.

New Orleans driving is more of a thrill than ever, thanks to potholes, traffic signals that could still be malfunctioning, street signs that have been turned around and damaged by the hurricane winds, and even streets where the asphalt has crumbled thanks to weeks spent under water. Unless you are touring the severely flooded areas, you probably won't contend with much of this, but be aware that it's a possibility. Meanwhile, New Orleans drivers are often reckless, so drive defensively. The meter maids are an efficient bunch, even now, so take no chances with parking meters. Carry change with you -- many meters take only quarters. Note that some streets, notably stretches of the shopping district on Magazine, have fancy machines placed at intervals, which could cause you to accidentally think the parking was free. Locate the machine, pay for whatever time you want, and then place the issued ticket inside on your dashboard. It's probably best to use your car only for longer jaunts away from congested areas. Most hotels provide guest parking, often for a hefty daily fee; smaller hotels or guesthouses (particularly in the French Quarter) may not have parking facilities but will be able to direct you to a nearby public garage. Parking lots are very expensive, and street parking is minimal.

The narrow streets and frequent congestion make driving in the French Quarter more difficult than elsewhere in the city. Streets are one-way, and on weekdays during daylight hours, Royal and Bourbon streets between the 300 and 700 blocks are closed to vehicles. The blocks of Chartres Street in front of St. Louis Cathedral are closed at all times. Driving is also trying in the Central Business District, where congestion and limited parking make life difficult for motorists. Do yourself a favor: Park the car and use public transportation in both areas.

Once you get into more residential areas like the Garden District and off main drags like St. Charles Avenue, finding where you are going becomes quite a challenge. Street signs are often not legible until after you cross an intersection, if they are present at all. At night they aren't even lit, so deciphering where you are can be next to impossible. If you must drive, we suggest counting the number of streets you have to cross to tell you when to make any turns rather than relying on street signs.

By Taxi

Taxis aren't quite as plentiful as they have been in New Orleans, but they can still be hailed easily on the street in the French Quarter and in some parts of the Central Business District, and they are usually lined up at taxi stands at larger hotels. Otherwise, telephone and expect a cab to appear in about 15 minutes. The rate is $2.50 when you enter the taxi and $1.60 per mile thereafter. During special events (like Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest), the rate is $4 per person (or the meter rate if it's greater) no matter where you go in the city. It is a $10 fee for transfers between hotels no matter how short the ride.

Most taxis can be hired for a special rate for up to five passengers. It's a hassle-free and economical way for a small group to tour far-flung areas of the city (the lakefront, for example). Within the city you pay an hourly rate; out-of-town trips cost double the amount on the meter.

The city's most reliable company is United Cabs (tel. 504/524-9606; www.unitedcabs.com).

On Foot

We can't stress this enough: Walking is by far the best way to see New Orleans. There are too many unique and sometimes glorious sights that you can miss if you whiz past them by using other forms of transportation. Slow down. Have a drink to go. Get a snack. Stroll. Take one of our walking tours. Sure, sometimes it's too hot or humid -- or raining too hard -- to make walking attractive, but there is always a cab or bus nearby. Remember to drink lots of water if it's hot and pay close attention to your surroundings. If you enter an area that seems unsafe, retreat.

By Bike

One of the best ways to see the city is by bike. The terrain is flat, the breeze feels good, and you can cover a whole lot of ground on two wheels. A bike store near the French Quarter rents bikes by the hour, day, or longer. Bicycle Michaels, 622 Frenchmen St. (tel. 504/945-9505; www.bicyclemichaels.com), rents mountain and hybrid bikes; during Jazz Fest it has a fleet of 100 bikes at the ready. Rates are $7.50 an hour, $20 a day, and $80 for 5 days. The shop requires a credit card deposit.

By Ferry

The Canal Street ferry is one of the city's secrets -- and it's free for pedestrians. The ride takes you across the Mississippi River from the foot of Canal to Algiers Point (25 min. round-trip), and it affords great views of downtown New Orleans and the commerce on the river. Once in Algiers, you can walk around the old Algiers Point neighborhood and tour Mardi Gras World. At night, with the city's glowing skyline reflecting on the river, a ride on the ferry can be quite romantic. The ferry also carries car traffic (for free), in case you'd like to do some West Bank driving.