Walking Tour 3

Esplanade Ridge

Start: Esplanade Avenue and Johnson Street.

Finish: City Park.

Time: Allow approximately 1 1/2 hours, not including museum, cemetery, and shopping stops.

Best Times: Monday through Saturday, early or late morning.

Worst Times: Sunday, when attractions are closed. Also, you certainly don't want to walk in this area after dark; if you decide to stay in City Park or in the upper Esplanade area until early evening, plan to return on the bus or by taxi.

This is another region of New Orleans that many visitors overlook -- even when they drive through it on the way to City Park, the New Orleans Museum of Art, or the Jazz & Heritage Festival. If you're heading to those attractions, consider taking this stroll or leaving enough time for sightseeing from your car. We particularly enjoy the stretch along St. John's Bayou -- mostly as slow and quiet as the sluggish water itself. Historically, the Esplanade Ridge area is Creole society's answer to St. Charles Avenue -- it's an equally lush boulevard with stately homes and seemingly ancient trees stretching overhead. Originally it was the site of homes of the descendants of the earliest settlers. The avenue had its finest days toward the end of the 19th century, and some of the neighborhoods along its path, especially the Faubourg Treme, are visibly suffering. If it is a little worn compared with St. Charles Avenue, Esplanade Avenue is still closer to the soul of the city (read: Regular people live here, whereas St. Charles always was for the well-heeled and is that way now more than ever). While parts of this street did flood, the area demonstrated why it is locally known as the "Esplanade Ridge"; the land is relatively high ground (for New Orleans!) and most of the water was in the street itself, sparing the houses alongside it.

You can catch a bus on Esplanade Avenue at the French Quarter, headed toward the park to your starting point. Otherwise, stroll (about 15 min.) up Esplanade Avenue to:

1. 2023 Esplanade Ave.

Originally a plantation home, this was designed in 1861 for A. B. Charpentier. The building is now operating as Ashton's Bed & Breakfast. They had massive storm damage but have completely renovated.

2. Widow Castanedo's House

Juan Rodriguez purchased this land in the 1780s, and his granddaughter, Widow Castanedo, lived in this home at 2033-2035 Esplanade Ave. until her death in 1861. At that time the house was a smaller, Spanish colonial-style plantation home. Before Esplanade Avenue extended this far from the river, the house was located in what is now the middle of the street. The widow tried and failed to block the extension of the street. The house was moved to its present site and was enlarged sometime around the 1890s. It has a late-Italianate appearance, and is split down the middle and inhabited today by two sisters.

3. 2139 Esplanade Ave.

This building is a great example of the typical Esplanade Ridge style. Note the Ionic columns on the upper level.

On the opposite side of the street is:

4. 2176 Esplanade Ave.

A simple, classic-style town house, this was the second Bayou Road home built by Hubert Gerard, who also built at the 1861 structure that now houses Ashton's Bed & Breakfast at no. 2023 .

After you cross North Miro Street, Esplanade Avenue crosses the diagonal Bayou Road, which was the route to the French-Canadian settlements at St. John's Bayou in the late 17th century. Veer left at the fork to stay on Esplanade Avenue and look for:

5. Goddess of History -- Genius of Peace Statue

This victory monument stands on the triangular piece of land at the intersection of Bayou Road, Esplanade Avenue, and Miro Street. In 1886 the land, known to earlier generations as Gayarre Place, was given to the city by Charles Gayarre. George H. Dunbar donated the statue to be placed there. The original terra-cotta statue was destroyed in 1938, and the present one, made of cement and marble, is a replacement.

6. Degas House

The Musson family rented this house, at 2306 Esplanade Ave., for many years. Estelle Musson married René Degas, brother of Edgar Degas, the French Impressionist artist. (She and her descendants dropped his last name after he ran off with a neighbor's wife.) Degas is said to have painted the portrait of Estelle that is now in the New Orleans Museum of Art, as well as many other works, during the time he spent living at no. 2306.

The house was built in 1854, and the Italianate decorations were added later when it was split into two buildings. Both have been restored and include a B&B. This is the only studio or residence of Degas open to the public in the world, so do come poke around, but know that in general it's a good idea to set up an appointment in advance to get in.

7. Reuther House

The current resident of this house, at 2326 Esplanade Ave., has a collection of small metal houses, cinder-block sculptures, and a beautiful metal-crafted marlin on display on the front porch, which is readily visible from the street. The house is known as the Reuther House because it was owned by Joseph Reuther, a baker, in 1913.

In passing, take a look at nos. 2325, 2329, and 2331 -- all are interesting examples of Creole cottages. Then, continue to:

8. 2337 and 2341 Esplanade Ave.

These houses were identical structures when they were built in 1862 for John Budd Slawson, owner of a horse-drawn-streetcar company that operated along Bayou Road in the 19th century. Back then, they were both single-story shotgun-style houses. Notice the unusual ironwork underneath the front roof overhang.

Cross North Dorgenois Street to:

9. 2453 Esplanade Ave.

Until the other was demolished, this house was one of a pair at the corner of Dorgenois Street. Though its architecture has been changed extensively, it's one of the few remaining mansard-roofed homes on Esplanade Ridge.

Cross North Broad Avenue to:

10. 2623 Esplanade Ave.

Here is a classical revival Victorian home built in 1896 by Louis A. Jung. Note the Corinthian columns. The Jungs donated the triangular piece of land at Esplanade Avenue, Broad Street, and Crete Street to the city on the condition that it remain public property. It is officially known as DeSoto Park and is graced by a fence in the Art Nouveau style.

11. 2809 Esplanade Ave.

This is one of the more decorative Victorian Queen Anne center-hall houses on Esplanade Ridge.

12. 2936 Esplanade Ave.

A nice example of what's known as a Gothic villa.

Take A Break

At the intersection of Mystery Street and Esplanade Avenue, you'll find a little grouping of shops and restaurants. If you're in the area at lunchtime, you might want to stop at Café Degas, 3127 Esplanade Ave., tel. 504/945-5635, for a leisurely meal -- if the weather is nice, the semi-outdoor setting is exceedingly pleasant. If you just want a snack or some picnic food for City Park, you can get cold cuts, ice cream, and other snacks at the family-run Italian grocery Terranova, 3308 Esplanade Ave., tel. 504/482-4131, across the street. You can also opt for a break at the excellent Fair Grinds coffeehouse just off Esplanade at 3133 Ponce De Leon.

Continue to:

13. 3330 Esplanade Ave.

A galleried frame home built in the Creole-cottage style.

On your right is:

14. St. Louis Cemetery No. 3

This was the site of the public Bayou Cemetery, established in 1835. It was purchased by the St. Louis diocese in 1856 and contains the burial monuments of many of the diocese's priests. If you've been putting off going into the cemeteries because of concerns over safety, this is one you can explore on your own -- though you should still keep your wits about you and be aware of your surroundings. You can pick up brochures in the office, which is right inside the gate.

From the cemetery, head back out to Esplanade Avenue and continue walking toward City Park. When you get to the bridge, go left, following the signs, along St. John's Bayou (one of the nicest and least touristy areas of the city), to:

15. Pitot House

This house, at 1440 Moss St., is open for public viewing.

Head back to Esplanade Avenue, turn left, cross the bridge, and walk straight into:

16. City Park

Here you can explore the amphitheater, museum, and gardens.