The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

What began in 1969 as a small gathering in Congo Square to celebrate the music of New Orleans now ranks as one of the best attended, most respected, and most musically comprehensive festivals in the world. Although people call it Jazz Fest, the full name is New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival presented by Shell, and the "heritage" part is broadly interpreted. Each of the 12 stages showcases a musical genre or three -- at times likening a walk through Fest to a miniature world tour. A walk will also mean catching the tantalizing aromas of a dozen or so different food offerings, and meeting a United Nations-like spectrum of fellow festgoers all at once.

Jazz Fest has come to encompass everything the city has to offer, in terms of music, food, and culture. That, and it's a hell of a party. Shell Oil stepped in to sponsor Jazz Fest in 2006, securing its return after Katrina and instigating a moment of resurrection for the city, highlighted by an emotional, resonant set by Bruce Springsteen and his Seeger Sessions band. Such musical and emotional epiphanies abound at Fest. While such headliners as Arcade Fire, Pearl Jam, Stevie Wonder, Van Morrison, Dave Matthews, My Morning Jacket, Bob Dylan, and The Roots have drawn record-setting crowds in recent years, serious Festers savor the lesser-known acts. They range from the avant-garde to old-time Delta bluesmen, from African artists making rare U.S. appearances to Bohemian street folkies, and from the top zydeco players to gospel mass choirs. And, of course, jazz.

Filling the infield of the Fair Grounds horse-racing track up near City Park, the festival covers 2 long weekends, the last in April and the first in May (for 2012, that's Apr 27-29 and May 3-6). It's set up about as well as such an event can be. When the crowds get thick, though -- especially the popular second Saturday -- it can be tough to move around, more so if the grounds are muddy from rain. Lines at the most popular of the several dozen food booths can be frustratingly long, but they're worth the wait. Although the crowds can diminish the fun some, they are generally remarkably well behaved.

Attending Jazz Fest means making a few decisions. Hotels, restaurants, and flights fill up months (if not a year) in advance, but the schedule is not announced until a couple of months before the event. Just about every day at Jazz Fest is a good day regardless of who is playing, however, and you can always go for both weekends. The Thursday before the second weekend traditionally has more locals, on stage and in the audience, and smaller crowds. It's a great time to hit the best food booths and to check out the crafts areas.

Jazz Fest Pointers

"It's a marathon, not a sprint" as the saying goes. With music in every direction, you can plot out your day or just wander from stage to stage, catching a few songs by just about everyone -- some of the best Jazz Fest experiences come from discovering a hitherto unknown (at least to you) band or otherwise stumbling across a gem of a musical moment. Or you can jettison the jetting about and instead set up camp at just one stage -- from the big ones, which feature famous headliners, to the gospel tent, where musical miracles are pretty much a given. We liken the choice to sit-down dining versus a buffet: Both have their advantages.

On a typical Jazz Fest day, you'll arrive sometime after the gates open at 11am and stay until you are pooped or they close at 7pm. Incredibly, the whole thing usually runs as efficiently as a Swiss train. After you leave, get some dinner, and hit the clubs. Every club in the city has Jazz Fest-related bookings (of special note are Piano Night at the House of Blues, Tipitina's' Instruments a Comin' benefit, and the jam-heavy shows produced by Superfly [www.superflypresents.com]). Alternatively, sleep.

The excellent nonmusical aspects of Jazz Fest are plentiful. Local craftspeople and juried artisans fill a sizable area with products and demonstrations. You might see Louisiana Native American basket making; Cajun accordion, fiddle, and triangle making; and/or Mardi Gras Indian beading. Contemporary arts and crafts -- such as jewelry, hand-blown glass, and painting -- are also abundant, and an open marketplace at Congo Square is filled with African (and African-influenced) crafts. Most vendors will pack and ship goods to your home (and there's a U.S. Post Office on site, too).

And then, as always in New Orleans, there's the food. There are local standbys, and we don't mean burgers and dogs; you'll find none of that here. We do mean red beans and rice, jambalaya, étouffée, gumbo, and more interesting choices such as oyster sacks, the hugely popular sausage bread, cochon de lait (a mouthwatering roast-pig sandwich), a fried soft-shell crab po' boy, and quail and pheasant gumbo. There's crawfish every way, in sushi, enchiladas, and the divine crawfish Monica (a white-cream sauce over pasta). And that's not even discussing the various Caribbean, African, Spanish, and vegetarian dishes available. The kids' area has PB&J, mac and cheese, and other easy-pleasing faves. Dessert? Mai oui: fresh strawberry shortcake, white chocolate bread pudding, Key lime tarts, fruity snoballs with condensed milk -- oh, my! We highly recommend trying at least one new thing daily, and also sharing, so you can sample more variety and decide which booths to revisit. Tip: There's copious cold beer, but the lines can get long. Smaller stages = shorter lines, and it's often worth it to trek there.

But wait, there's more! Cultural presentations on topics like folklore, traditions, and local food (complete with tastes!) are held daily. These little jewels are easily overlooked. We encourage you to either buy a program (which lists everything being offered and has food coupons, too) or drop by one of the information booths to look over the listings. And yes, there's an app for that, with schedules and descriptions. Link to it from the Fest website, www.nojazzfest.com.

Experienced Fest-goers also know that the Grandstand is the best-kept secret; it's air-conditioned, full of art and photography exhibits, and has cooking demonstrations by the city's best chefs. The upstairs Heritage Stage features interviews and short performances by some of the acts in a more intimate setting. We once saw Elvis Costello and Allen Toussaint with only a handful of people, compared with the thousands who struggled to see their full set later in the day.

Wear and bring as little as possible, you'll want to be comfy and unencumbered. But do bring sun protection, something that tells time, a poncho if rain is forecast (they sell them there, but for double what you'll pay at a souvenir store), moola (cash only for food; credit okay for crafts), and a camera if that's your thing (no video- or audio-taping allowed, though). Wear comfy, supportive, well broken-in shoes, whether (for you) that means sandals or hiking boots. You know your feet, and plan accordingly.

Note: No outside beverages (apart from 1 liter of water) are allowed at Jazz Fest. Though there are seats in the two jazz tents and the gospel tent, and some bleachers at fais-do-do, people either sit on the ground, stand, or bring blankets or folding chairs. When left vacant, these become annoying space hogs. Kind Fest-goers invite others to use their space when they leave temporarily, but don't be shy about asking.

Purchase tickets when they go on sale in late fall or early winter, when they are the cheapest. They're available through Ticketmaster (tel. 800/745-3000; www.ticketmaster.com), online or at any Ticketmaster outlet. Admission for adults in 2011 was $40 in advance (when purchasing a full weekend's worth), $60 at the gate, $5 for children (plus Ticketmaster's ample handling fees). There are also various VIP packages available, with a range of swanky seating, access, and amenities including the elevated "Big Chief" VIP seating area (nearly $1,000 per weekend). The good news is that general admission Fest tickets are always available at the gate (there is no sellout, except for the VIP packages). The bad news is that tickets are always available at the gate, which can lead to major crowds. For more information, contact New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (tel. 504/410-4100; www.nojazzfest.com).

Jazz Fest Parking & Transportation -- The only parking at the Fair Grounds is for people with disabilities at $50 a day, first-come, first-served. We strongly recommend that you take public transportation or one of the available shuttles. The Regional Transit Authority operates bus routes from various pickup points to the Fair Grounds. For schedules, contact tel. 504/248-3900 (www.norta.com). Taxis, though busy, charge a special-event rate of $5 per person (or the meter reading if it's higher); try United Cabs (tel. 504/524-9606). Gray Line's Jazz Fest Express (tel. 800/535-7786 or 504/569-1401; www.graylineneworleans.com) operates shuttles from the steamboat Natchez dock in the French Quarter, the Sheraton at 500 Canal St., and City Park. It's $17 round-trip and you must have your Jazz Fest ticket already in hand to ride (you can add them to your Ticketmaster ticket order).

Note: The Canal Street streetcar line will be packed, but it's another option from the Quarter. Take it to the Carrollton line, which then gets you close to the Fair Grounds' City Park entrance.

Package Deals -- Festival Tours International, 15237 Sunset Blvd., Ste. 17, Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 (tel. 310/454-4080; www.gumbopages.com/festivaltours), designs tour packages that include accommodations and tickets for Jazz Fest, plus a midweek visit to Cajun Country for unique personal encounters with local musicians.

If you're flying to New Orleans specifically for the Jazz & Heritage Festival, visit www.nojazzfest.com to get a Jazz Fest promotional code from a list of airlines that offer special fares during the event.