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Whole Lotta Muffuletta Goin' On

Muffulettas are sandwiches of (pardon the expression) heroic proportions, enormous concoctions of round Italian bread, Italian cold cuts and cheeses, and olive salad. One person cannot (or should not) eat a whole one -- at least not in one sitting. Instead, share; a half makes a good meal, and a quarter is a filling snack. They may not sound like much on paper, but once you try one, you'll be hooked. Vegetarians swear they're delicious done meatless.

Several places in town claim to have invented the muffuletta and also claim to make the best one. Decide for yourself: Muffuletta comparison-shopping can be a very rewarding pastime.

The lunchtime line can be daunting but moves fast at Central Grocery, 923 Decatur St. (tel. 504/523-1620). There are a few seats at the back of this crowded, heavenly smelling Italian grocery, or you can order to go. Best of all, they ship, so once you're hooked -- and you will be -- you needn't wait to return for a muffuletta fix. Eat it across the street on the banks of the Mississippi for an inexpensive, romantic meal (about $14 for a whole sandwich). The staff at Central Grocery makes up their sandwiches early in the day, so they're ready for the rush. Don't worry about freshness; it actually helps when the olive flavors soak through the layers.

Are the heated muffulettas at Napoleon House better or blasphemy? It's a different taste sensation -- judge for yourself. Feeling experimental? Go to Nor-Joe's Importing Co., 505 Friscoe, in Metairie (tel. 504/833-9240), where the ginormous, outstanding muffulettas, constructed with such iconoclastic ingredients as prosciutto and mortadella, have their own cult following. Then there's Cochon Butcher, whose house-cured meats form the basis of what may be our new favorite 'letta.

Anythin' Flamin'

Once upon a time, while waiting for Casamento's doors to open and just moments from an oyster loaf, three youngish tourist gals struck up a chat (as happens nearly automatically in New Orleans) with three Uptown ladies-of-a-certain-age ahead of them. They were St. Charles-born and -bred, dined at Casamento's weekly, and offered us NOLA newbies some well-tested tips. This one still sticks (and sounds best when read with a high-pitched, breathy lilt): "You simply must go to any of the fine, old French restaurants, and when you do, why you just order anythin' flamin'." Meaning, go to Antoine's, Arnaud's, Commander's Palace, or Galatoire's, and get the bananas Foster, café brûlot, cherries jubilee, or anything prepared tableside and involving conflagration. Naturally we bought the ladies a round, and to this day we're still following their fine advice and living by the "anythin' flamin'" mantra: Indulge a bit, relish fun, and while there's no need to embrace drama in all aspects of life, when it comes to dessert, by all means do.

Road Trip Eats

You can snag plenty of good eats out in the suburbs and parishes in and around New Orleans. If you have a car (or a friend with one), these local favorites are well worth the 10- to 30-minute drives.

• Charlie's Seafood: Noted chef Frank Brigtsen's neighborhood seafood joint. Just like when he was a kid, only better (8311 Jefferson Hwy., Harahan; tel. 504/737-3700; $8-$22; Mon-Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 10am-3pm).

• The Crab Trap: Down a remote narrow lane and on the edge of Lake Pontchartrain, the freshest crabs, shrimp, and crawfish might be found (Peavine Rd. off Hwy. 51, Frenier; tel. 985/651-2345; $8-$22; Feb-Mar Fri-Sun 11am-7pm, Apr-Oct Fri-Sun 11am-8pm; closed Nov-Jan).

• Deanie's: This well-respected seafood joint is the very model of a neighborhood restaurant. There's one in the French Quarter now but we prefer the original (1713 Lake Ave., Metairie; tel. 504/831-4141; $10-$35 or market price; Tues-Sun 11am-10pm).

• The Galley: The folks who do the soft-shell crab po' boys at Jazz Fest do other things just as well, and they're nearby in pretty Old Metairie (2534 Metairie Rd.; tel. 504/832-0955; $11-$27; Tues-Sat 11am-9pm).

• The Joint BBQ: A funky, ah, joint with stellar dry-rubbed and slo-o-o-o-w smoked barbecue, plus homemade sauces, sides, and pies (801 Poland Ave., Bywater; tel. 504/949-3232; $7-$22; Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm).

• Martin Wine Cellar: Just great deli sandwiches, good salads, plus a daily soup and hot food option. Counter service (714 Elmeer at Veterans, Metairie; tel. 504/896-7350; everything under $14; Mon-Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 10am-3pm).

• Middendorf's: A classic, on-the-water joint that fries up the crispiest, thinnest, freshest catfish imaginable (30160 Hwy. 51 South, Akers; tel. 985/386-6666; $12-$19; Wed-Sun 10:30am-9pm).

• Mondo: Bayona chef Susan Spicer's popular, casual place in the suburb of Lakeview (900 Harrison Ave., Lakeview; tel. 504/224-2633; $6.50-$12 lunch, $12-$21 dinner; Wed-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm, Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30pm, Sun brunch 11am-2pm).

• Mosca's: Generations of New Orleanians make the drive and wait the wait for killer old-school Italian (4137 U.S. Hwy. 90, Avondale; tel. 504/436-8950; $11-$34; Tues-Sat 5:30-9:30pm).

• R&O's: Thoroughly unpretentious old-school neighborhood joint serving the usual classics: po' boys, fried seafood, Italian essentials (216 Hammond Hwy., Metairie; tel. 504/831-1248; most items under $15, crab $24; Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, Wed-Sat 5:30-9pm, Sun 11:30-3pm and 5-9pm).

• Walker's: Another Fest favorite. The cochon de lait po' boy comes from right here, along with really good barbecue (10828 Hayne Blvd., Lakefront; tel. 504/241-8227; $6-$18; Tues-Fri 10:30am-2pm, Sat 10:30am-6pm).

A Snoball's Chance

We all scream for ice cream (New Orleans is no exception), but New Orleans has another popular iced dessert: the snoball. Lest you think it's just a snow cone or shaved ice clone, let us assure you: It's no such thing. These mouthwatering concoctions are made with only the best-quality shaved ice, ice so fine that skiers envy the powder. And the flavors -- including exotic ones such as wedding cake (almond, mostly), nectar (think cream soda, only much better), and even orchid cream vanilla (bright purple and must be seen to be believed) -- are absolutely delectable (the better proprietors make their own flavored syrups). Order them with condensed or evaporated milk if you prefer your refreshing drinks on the more decadently creamy side, or go further -- some shops have started spiking them with booze. At any time on a hot day, lines can be out the door, and like so many other local specialties, loyalties are fierce. You should stop in at any snoball stand you see, but the following locations are worth seeking out. Be sure to call for hours because they vary, especially during the winter when a stand might be closed entirely. Go with a sweet tooth and get plenty of napkins.

Hansen's Sno-Bliz, 4801 Tchoupitoulas St. (tel. 504/891-9788; www.snobliz.com), is a city tradition after decades of service, still provided with a smile by the third-generation owner Ashley Hansen, who officially took over after her grandparents died in the months after Katrina. Hansen's grandparents invented the particular shaved-ice machine in use here and their own special syrups, and the snoballs come in a souvenir cup. Try the bubble gum-flavored Sno-bliz. Plum St. Snoballs, 1300 Burdette St. (tel. 504/866-7996; www.plumstreetsnoball.com), has been cooling New Orleanians for more than 70 years, serving favorites in Chinese food containers. Fans of Pandora's, 901 S. Carrollton Ave. (tel. 504/289-0765), say its ice is the softest anywhere, and the flavor list is so long it's taking over the neighborhood. You'll have to fight the hordes of school kids in line, even, it often seems, during school hours. But clearly they've learned where to get a good snoball.