If Mardi Gras in New Orleans sounds like too much for you no matter how low-key you keep it, consider driving out to Cajun Country, where Mardi Gras traditions are just as strong but considerably more, er, wholesome. Lafayette, the capital of French Acadiana, celebrates Carnival in a different manner, one that really reflects the Cajun heritage and spirit. Three full days of activities lead up to Cajun Mardi Gras, making it second in size only to New Orleans's celebration. There's one big difference, though: Their final pageant and ball are open to the general public. Don your formal wear and join right in!
Instead of Rex and his queen, the Lafayette festivities are ruled by King Gabriel and Queen Evangeline. They are the fictional hero and heroine of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's epic poem Evangeline, which was based on real-life lovers who were separated during the British expulsion of Acadians from Nova Scotia around the time of the French and Indian War. Their story is still very much alive here among the descendants of those who shared their wanderings.
Things get off to a joyous start with the Children's Krewe and Krewe of Bonaparte parades and ball, held on the Saturday before Mardi Gras, following a full day of celebration at Acadian Village. On Monday night Queen Evangeline is honored at the Queen's Parade. The King's Parade, held the following morning, honors King Gabriel and opens a full day of merriment. Lafayette's African-American community stages the Parade of King Toussaint L'Ouverture and Queen Suzanne Simonne at about noon, just after the King's Parade. Then the Krewe of Lafayette invites everyone to get into the act as its parade winds through the streets. Krewe participants trot along on foot or ride in the vehicle of their choice -- some very imaginative modes of transportation turn up every year. The Mardi Gras climax, a formal ball presided over by the king and queen and their royal court, takes place that night. Everything stops promptly at midnight, as Cajuns and visitors alike depart to begin their observance of Lent.
Masked Men & A Big Gumbo -- In the Cajun countryside that surrounds Lafayette, there's yet another form of Mardi Gras celebration, one tied to the rural lifestyle. Cajuns firmly believe in sharing, so you're welcome to come along. The celebration goes like this: Bands of masked men dressed in raggedy patchwork costumes (unlike the New Orleans costumes, which are heavy on glitter and shine) and peaked hats known as capichons set off on Mardi Gras morning on horseback (but don't count on getting a horse -- instead, plan on walking or hitching a ride in a car), led by their capitaine. They ride from farm to farm, asking at each, "Voulez-vous reçevoir le Mardi Gras?" ("Will you receive the Mardi Gras?") and dismounting as the invariable "Oui" comes in reply. Each farmyard then becomes a miniature festival as the revelers faire le macaque ("make monkeyshines") with song and dance, much drinking of beer, and other antics loosely labeled "entertainment." As payment for their show, they demand, and get, "a fat little chicken to make a big gumbo" (or sometimes a bag of rice or other ingredients).
When each band has visited its allotted farmyards, they all head back to town where everyone else has already begun the general festivities. There'll be dancing in the streets, rowdy card games, storytelling, and the like until the wee hours, and you can be sure that all those fat little chickens go into the "gumbo gros" pot to make a very big gumbo indeed.
You can write or call ahead for particulars on both the urban (Lafayette) and rural (the rest of Cajun Country) Mardi Gras celebrations. For the latter, the towns of Eunice and Mamou stage some of the most enjoyable celebrations. Contact the Lafayette Parish Convention and Visitors Commission, P.O. Box 52066, Lafayette, LA 70505 (tel. 800/346-1958 in the U.S., 800/543-5340 in Canada, or 337/232-3737; www.lafayettetravel.com), for more information.
