Frommer's Review
One of the great cultural landmarks of New Orleans's black history, St. Augustine's has been a center of community life in the troubled but striving Treme neighborhood since the mid-1800s. Founded by "free people of color," who also purchased pews for the exclusive use by slaves (frustrating their white masters!), a first in the history of slavery in the U.S., and resulting in one of the most integrated churches in the country. In the modern era, under the direction of its visionary and charismatic pastor, Fr. Jerome LeDoux, St. Augustine's continued to celebrate its history by integrating traditional African and New Orleans elements into its services. Homer Plessy, Sidney Bechet, and Big Chief Tootie Montana all called this their home church. In late 2005 the archdiocese decided to close St. Augustine's thanks to diminished membership, but a major public outcry bought it a reprieve (until sometime in 2008), though Fr. LeDoux is no longer its full-time priest. Nonetheless, services here remain remarkable, especially when the church has one of its frequent jazz masses, which can feature performers like Troy Andrews, John Boutte, and others, and can be the best free concert in town. (There is excellent music at pretty much every Sunday 10am mass.) Frequent art exhibits celebrating the neighborhood, and the deeply moving Tomb of the Unknown Slave outside, make this worth a stop even if it's not a Sunday (though you should call ahead to make sure it's open). Combine it with a trip to the BackStreet Cultural Museum across the street. And give them a donation; let's try to keep them going another couple centuries.
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