Dooky Chase

For decades, Leah and husband Dooky Chase have served prominent African-American politicians, musicians, and businesspeople Chef Leah's classic soul food as gloriously influenced by the city's French, Sicilian, and Italian traditions. This was the place people like Ray Charles (who wrote "Early in the Morning" about it) would come to after local shows and stay up eating gumbo. The Chases lived in a FEMA trailer across from the restaurant during its extensive rebuild. It's back, serving a lunch buffet and entrees (with exquisite fried chicken, sautéed veal, and chicken Creole leading the way) in the art-filled dining room (though be aware that the neighborhood isn't the best). The charming Chases are everything that is New Orleans (nonagenarian Leah was the model for two characters in Disney's delightful film The Princess and the Frog) and so is their cuisine. Grandson Edgar "Dook" Chase IV, a Le Cordon Bleu grad, now helms the stove alongside Leah (she still cooks!); he seems to have inherited the tasty gene. Long may they cook.

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