Lilette's chef-owner John Harris trained locally under Bayona's Susan Spicer, who sent him to work in France with Michelin-starred chefs. The result is a menu of more arty playfulness than many other local establishments, served in a space that uses the high ceiling and tile floor to good effect, though the result is a fashionable bistro space that would not look out of place in Tribeca. Full of businesspeople at lunch, and locals at any time, you are probably better off coming here at lunch for the cheaper menu that sufficiently reflects what Harris is up to. Sizzling shrimp bubbles as it arrives, just like the authentic Spanish tapas versions. Braised pork belly topped with a poached egg can be heavy rather than satisfyingly rich, but potato gnocchi in a sage brown butter sauce is light and fresh. While sandwiches are only at lunch, at any time of day you can get fancy (sometimes oddly hearty) and nicely composed dishes such as boudin noir (dark sausage) with homemade mustard, arugula with white balsamic vinaigrette, and grilled beets with goat cheese. Don't miss the curious signature dessert, little rounds of goat-cheese crème fraîche delicately paired with pears poached in vanilla bean and raisin-flavored liquid, and topped with lavender honey -- a marriage made on Mount Olympus.
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