Dante's is too easily overlooked thanks to its left-of-center location and relatively low profile, but the reality is that it's just at the end of the St. Charles streetcar line. Further, its lively take on local cuisine, with a careful eye toward seasonal and local products, is worthy of greater fame. The bright and cheerful colors of the interior of its old house setting and the enthusiastic staff make it a pleasure from the start. At dinner, look for items such as redfish "on the half shell," the trio of filet mignon topped with pork debris and a Stilton sauce, and a house-made pâté plate that might include goose riellete with caper berries. Brunch is a strong alternative, especially given their splendid take on eggs Benedict, with tender rosemary-crusted pork taking the place of the traditional Canadian bacon, a hint of honey adding sweetness to the hollandaise sauce, and a caramelized biscuit supporting it all. There's a fat ham-and-runny brie sandwich that is much better than any generic deli version of same, and the grits are perfect. So, too, are their drinks, in particular the seasonal fruit rum punch during watermelon season. Not just another standard-issue New Orleans restaurant.
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