Cochon

Frommer's Review

Anyone opening a new restaurant these days is to be lauded, so here's a round of appreciative applause for Chef Donald Link of Herbsaint, and his partner Stephen Stryjewski (who is the one usually in the kitchen), who have not only braved an uncertain market, but also delivered a venture that would be delightful under any circumstances. Influenced by Link's own family background in Acadia, this features mostly small plates of Cajun-inspired dishes. If we point out that nothing is precisely Cajun, nor is there enough pork, that's not meant to be surly. We just happen to be particular about pig. And it's a compliment; we want more dishes like the garlicky cochon (roasted suckling pig) with cracklins, the pork rillette, the ribs with watermelon pickle, and the oyster-and-bacon sandwich. We also want them bigger (yes, even the "small plates") because the mouthfuls you get are so darn good. Then again, that leaves us room for orange ice box and lemon-buttermilk pie. Order a bunch of plates and mix and match meat to your heart's delight.

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