Frommer's Review
Don't be fooled by its bar business. Delachaise, housed in a long narrow building that occupies its own block on St. Charles (convenient to both the Quarter and Garden District), contains one clever chef who has created a menu of such playful, piquant small plates that you might never look at another bar menu again without a sense of regret that you aren't eating here. The other regret is that you won't have room to try everything, especially taking into account nightly specials such as Oeufs en Meurette (poached egg with chanterelles and bacon in a rich wine-intensive veal reduction sauce), an all foie-gras menu, and Chef Pete's (late of Marisol) nightly pâté (chunky lamb with cranberries when we were there). Then there are seasonal possibilities, like a ginger-watermelon soup with lump crabmeat and avocado (it tasted like summer in a cup) and fresh fish cooked in paper topped with a crawfish and tasso mousse (essentially a meld of Creole classic with recent Vietnamese influences). Or regular menu items such as muhammara (roasted red pepper purée with pomegranate molasses), an excellent cheese list, and, of course, the french fries fried in duck fat, which reduce all other fries to dust and ashes. As if that's not enough, look for nightly crème brûlée specials (blackberry and pinot noir or blueberry and ginger pique your interest?) or a peach and Creole cream cheese ice-cream sandwich. What to do? Sit till late and try it all -- that's what we would do.
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