Getting Around

By Taxi

You can easily rely on taxis and skip renting a car. The rates for New Providence, including Nassau, are set by the government. Although working meters are required in all taxis, some of them don't work. Consequently, the government has established a well-defined roster of rates for passage between the airport and various points around the island. When you get in, the fixed rate is $3 (£1.60), plus 40¢ (20p) for each additional quarter-mile. Each passenger over 2 years old pays an extra $3 (£1.60). For sightseeing purposes, taxis can also be hired at the hourly rate of $45 (£24) for a five-passenger cab. Luggage is carried at a surcharge of $1 (55p) extra per piece, although the first two pieces are transported free. The radio-taxi call number is tel. 242/323-5111. It's easy to get a taxi at the airport or at any of the big hotels.

By Car

You really don't need to rent a car. It's a lot easier to rely on taxis when you're ready to leave the beach and do a little exploring.

However, if you choose to drive (perhaps for a day of touring the whole island), some of the biggest U.S. car-rental companies maintain branches at the airport, in downtown Nassau, at Cable Beach, and on Paradise Island. Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 242/326-6380; www.avis.com) operates at the airport and also has branches at the cruise-ship docks at Bay Street and Cumberland Street, across from the British Colonial Hilton (tel. 242/326-6380). Budget Rent-a-Car (tel. 800/527-0700 or 242/377-9000; www.budgetrentacar.com) has a branch at the airport and on Shirley Street in downtown Nassau. Dollar/Thrifty Rent-a-Car (tel. 800/654-3131 or 242/377-8300; www.dollar.com) rents at the airport and also from within a kiosk at the British Colonial Hilton. Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 or 242/377-8684; www.hertz.com) has only one location: at the airport.

Remember: Drive on the left!

By Bus

The least expensive means of transport is by any of the medium-sized buses (some locals refer to them as "jitneys") that make runs from downtown Nassau to outposts on New Providence. The fare is $1 (55p), and exact change, in coins or with a dollar bill, is required. The jitneys operate daily from 6:30am to 7pm. Buses to the Cable Beach area and points west of that include the much-used #10, the 10A, and the "Western" bus. They depart from the corner of Bay Street and George Street, and stop at various clearly designated spots along Bay Street. Buses headed to the eastern (mostly residential and rarely accessed by short-term visitors) part of New Providence Island depart from the Frederick Street North depot.

By Boat

Water taxis operate daily from 9am to 6pm at 20-minute intervals between Paradise Island and Prince George Wharf. An alternative service involves ferryboats, which link the wharves at the end of Casuarina Drive on Paradise Island to Rawson Square, across the channel on New Providence Island. The ferry operates daily from 9:30am to 4:15pm, with departures every half-hour from both sides of the harbor. Both the ferryboats and the water taxis charge the same fixed rate: $3 (£1.60) per person, each way, for passage across the channel.

By Moped

Lots of visitors like to rent mopeds to explore the island. Unless you're an experienced moped rider, stay on quiet roads until you feel at ease. (Don't start out in all the congestion on Bay St.) Some hotels maintain rental kiosks on their premises. If yours doesn't, try Knowles (tel. 242/356-0741), at Festival Place, near the cruise ship dock, which rents mopeds for $50 (£27) per day. Included in the rental price are insurance and mandatory helmets for both drivers and passengers. Mopeds are rented daily between 8am and 5pm.

A Surrey with a Fringe on Top

The nostalgic and old-fashioned way to see Nassau is in a horse-drawn surrey -- the kind with the fringe on top and a wilted hibiscus stuck in the straw hat shielding the horse from the sun. Before you get in, you should negotiate with the driver and agree on the price. The average charge is between $10 (£5.30) and $15 (£7.95) per person for a 20-minute ride. The maximum load is three adults plus one or two children under the age of 12. The surreys are available daily from 9am to 4:30pm, except when the horses are resting (that's 1-3pm May-Oct, and 1-2pm Nov-Apr). You'll find the surreys at Rawson Square, off Bay Street, close to the Straw Market.

On Your Own Sturdy Feet

This is the only way to see Old Nassau, unless you rent a horse and carriage. All the major attractions and the principal stores are within walking distance. You can even walk to Cable Beach or Paradise Island, although it's a hike in the hot sun. Confine your walking to the daytime, and beware of the occasional pickpocket and purse snatcher. In the evening, avoid walking the streets of downtown Nassau, where, from time to time, muggings have been reported.