Frommer's Review
For nearly 30 years, through good and bad times, this restaurant has been a prominent culinary landmark in Nassau, the best of a core of locally owned restaurants valiantly holding their own against daunting competition from better-funded restaurants within the island's megaresorts. Today, under the hard-working administration of Belgium-born owner and chef Ronny Deryckere and his wife, Esther, it's better and more of an inner sanctum than ever. It occupies the premises of what was originally built in the 1930s as a private residence, Red Mill House, within an upscale, mostly residential neighborhood east of downtown Nassau. You might want a drink within the bar area, which is a distinctly separate entity all its own, before heading into one of several dining rooms, each of them arranged around a central courtyard containing tropical plants, shrubs, and a swimming pool. Some of the dishes emerging from the kitchens of this place are unique on New Providence or Paradise Islands: Examples include sweetbreads, prepared either with white wine and mushroom sauce or with a demiglaze and cognac; the best Roquefort salad in town; an absolutely fabulous version of steak tartare, served with pommes frites; and grilled octopus with chopped onions and a tapenade of olives. Of special note is the Bahamian fisher's platter, composed of artfully prepared fish that's entirely caught within local waters. If there's a moment during the dinner when you're not otherwise occupied, check out the photos lining the walls depicting clients of yesterday, who have included Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope, Richard Widmark, and the Duke of Windsor.
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