21 miles NW of Buffalo; 165 miles NW of Ithaca
Okay, let's ignore the wedding and honeymoon thing for a minute and just focus on the water. It flows down the Niagara River, picking up speed as it courses along its ancient migratory pathway, reaching speeds of up to 30 mph before tumbling, hundreds of thousands of gallons at a time, over the craggy rocks of Niagara Falls. You can get the view with your toes just inches from both sets of falls, the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls; you can also check them out from way up high, from your hotel room, or from down below, with the mist spraying up in your face.
That's the cool part of the falls. And since we share the attraction with Canada, you can take in the view from the New York side or the Ontario side. On the American side you can see the pre-falls rapids and get varied views of the water. Across the border is a gorgeous panorama of both the American Falls and Horseshoe Falls. The Canadian side is much better set up for travelers, with a wealth of hotels, restaurants, and activities that you won't find on the American side.
Now let's get to the kitsch. Ever since two American aristocrats honeymooned here in 1801, followed by Jerome Bonaparte (Napoleon's younger brother) and his bride 3 years later, the area surrounding the falls has been a draw for elopers and honeymooners, complete with heart-shaped whirlpool tubs and mirrored ceilings, along with wax museums and souvenir shops.
That Niagara Falls still exists, though it's changing; hotels with heart-shaped tubs are slowly disappearing, being replaced by standard chains and more deluxe options. The contest on the Canadian side is to see who can build the tallest hotel; right now it's the Embassy Suites (42 floors), but in January 2007, the Hilton broke ground to build up to 50 floors, and there are reports of an even taller hotel in the works.
The American side of the falls is still economically depressed, but it has taken a huge leap forward with one of the best hotels on either side of the falls, the 26-floor, 600-room Seneca Niagara Casino Hotel & Spa (310 Fourth St.; tel. 877/8-SENECA; www.senecaniagaracasino.com), which fully opened in 2006. While it lacks the full-on view of the falls that you'll find in Canada, it's a luxury hotel in every sense of the word, with great restaurants, shows, and an ever-expanding casino.
Still, overall, the Canadian side is where the most fun is, especially for the kids. Bring your passport.
