You simply cannot come this far and not see the falls, which are the seventh natural wonder of the world. The most exciting way to do that is from the decks of the Maid of the Mist, 5920 River Rd. (tel. 905/358-5781; www.maidofthemist.com). The sturdy boat takes you right in -- through the turbulent waters around the American Falls; past the Rock of Ages; and to the foot of the Horseshoe Falls, where 34.5 million imperial gallons of water tumble over the 54m-high (176-ft.) cataract each minute. You'll get wet, and your glasses will mist, but that won't detract from the thrill. Boats leave from the dock on the parkway just down from the Rainbow Bridge. Trips operate daily from mid-May to mid-October. Fares are C$14.50 (£7.25) for adults and C$9 (£4.50) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under.
Go down under the falls using the elevator at the Table Rock Centre, which drops you 46m (151 ft.) through solid rock to the tunnels and viewing portals of the Journey Behind the Falls (tel. 905/354-1551). You'll receive -- and appreciate -- a rain poncho. Admission is C$12 (£6) for adults, C$7 (£3.50) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under. Another attraction at the Table Rock Centre (which has been going through a $32 million renovation lately) is Niagara's Fury, which opened on June 27, 2008. The details were kept tightly under wraps until just before the new attraction was unveiled. Visitors are invited to "experience" the creation of the falls in a chamber that swirls visual images over a 360-degree screen, has the ground shake beneath them, envelops them in a blizzard, and makes the temperature drop from 75F to 40F degrees (24°C to 4°C) in 3 seconds. It's an intense experience, which is why it's not appropriate for very young children. Fares are C$15 (£7.50) for adults, C$9 (£4.50) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under. Open daily 9am to 9pm.
You can ride the external glass-fronted elevators 159m (522 ft.) to the top of the Skylon Tower Observation Deck, 5200 Robinson St. (tel. 905/356-2651; www.skylon.com). The observation deck is open daily from 8am to midnight from June to Labour Day; hours vary in other seasons, so call ahead. Adults pay C$13 (£5.40), children 12 and under C$7.50 (£3.75).
For a different view of Niagara Falls, stop by the IMAX Theater, 6170 Buchanan Ave. (tel. 905/358-3611; www.imaxniagara.com). You can view the raging, swirling waters in Niagara: Miracles, Myths, and Magic, shown on a six-story-high screen. Admission is C$15 (£7.50) for adults, C$11 (£5.50) for children 4 to 12, free for children 3 and under. I consider this a lot of money to pay for a movie that is only 45 minutes long. You can save some money by buying a combination ticket with the Skylon Tower, or by purchasing your tickets online in advance.
The falls are also exciting in winter, when the ice bridge and other formations are quite remarkable.
The Honeymoon Capital of the World -- Seeing Niagara Falls as it today -- in all of its loud, neon, carnival glory -- you can't help but wonder how anyone could ever have thought it romantic enough for a honeymoon. But back in 1801, when the falls was simply a natural wonder of the highest order, Aaron Burr's daughter, Theodosia, chose it as the perfect place for her honeymoon. Napoleon's brother Jerome Bonaparte followed in her footsteps with his bride in 1804, and suddenly everybody thought Niagara Falls was the place for a newlywed couple to be. Well, not everybody. After that trenchant wit Oscar Wilde visited Niagara Falls in 1881, he wrote: "Every American bride is taken there, and the sight of the stupendous waterfall must be one of the earliest if not the keenest disappointments in American married life."
