Attractions

The Niagara Parkway, on the Canadian side of the falls, is a gem. Unlike the American side, it abounds with natural wonders, including vast expanses of parkland. You can drive along the 56km (35-mile) parkway all the way from Niagara-on-the-Lake to Niagara Falls, taking in attractions en route. Here are the major ones, listed in the order in which you'll encounter them:

• The White Water Walk, 4330 River Rd. (tel. 905/374-1221): The scenic boardwalk runs beside the raging white waters of the Great Gorge Rapids. Stroll along and wonder how it must have felt to challenge this mighty torrent, where the river rushes through the narrow channel at an average speed of 35kmph (22 mph). Admission is C$8.50 (£4.25) for adults, C$5 (£2.50) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under. Open daily from 9am to 5pm (closes at 7pm or 8pm from mid-May till Labor Day).

• The Whirlpool Aero Car (tel. 905/354-5711): This red-and-yellow cable-car contraption whisks you on a 1,097m (3,600-ft.) jaunt between two points in Canada. High above the Niagara Whirlpool, you'll enjoy excellent views of the surrounding landscape. Admission is C$11 (£5.50) for adults, C$6.50 (£3.25) for children 6 to 12, free for kids 5 and under. Open daily May to the third Sunday in October. Hours are from 10am to 5pm (closes at 7pm or 8pm from mid-May till Labor Day).

• The Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens and School of Horticulture (tel. 905/356-8119): Stop here for a free view of the vast gardens and a look at the Floral Clock, which contains 25,000 plants in its 12m-diameter (40-ft.) face. The gorgeous Butterfly Conservatory is also in the gardens. In this lush tropical setting, more than 2,000 butterflies (50 international species) float and flutter among such nectar-producing flowers as lantanas and pentas. The large, bright-blue, luminescent Morpho butterflies from Central and South America are particularly gorgeous. Interpretive programs and other presentations take place in the auditorium and two smaller theaters. The native butterfly garden outside attracts the more familiar swallowtails, fritillaries, and painted ladies. Admission is C$11 (£5.50) for adults, C$6.50 (£3.25) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under. Open daily 9am-5pm.

• Queenston Heights Park: This is the site of a famous War of 1812 battle, and you can take a walking tour of the battlefield. Picnic or play tennis in the shaded arbor before moving to the Laura Secord Homestead, Partition Street, Queenston (tel. 905/262-4851). This heroic woman threaded enemy lines to alert British authorities to a surprise attack by American soldiers during the War of 1812. Her home contains a fine collection of Upper Canada furniture from the period, plus artifacts recovered from an archaeological dig. Stop at the candy shop and ice-cream parlor. Tours run every half-hour. Admission is C$4.50 (£2.25) for adults, C$3.50 for children 6 to 12, free for children age 5 and under. Open Wed-Sun 11am-5pm (open daily in summer).

• Fruit farms like Kurtz Orchards (tel. 905/468-2937) and wineries such as the Inniskillin Winery, Line 3, Service Road 66 (tel. 905/468-3554 or 905/468-2187): You'll find peaches, apples, pears, nectarines, cherries, plums, and strawberries at Kurtz; you can tour the 32 hectares (80 acres) on a tractor-pulled tram. Inniskillin is open daily from 10am to 6pm June to October, and Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm November through May. The self-guided free tour has 20 stops that explain the winemaking process. A free guided tour, offered daily in summer and Saturdays only in winter, begins at 2:30pm.

• Old Fort Erie, 350 Lakeshore Rd., Fort Erie (tel. 905/871-0540): It's a reconstruction of the fort that was seized by the Americans in July 1814, besieged later by the British, and finally blown up as the Americans retreated across the river to Buffalo. Guards in period costume stand sentry duty, fire the cannons, and demonstrate drill and musket practice. Open daily from 10am to 5pm from the first Saturday in May to mid-September, and weekends only to Canadian Thanksgiving (U.S. Columbus Day). Admission is C$9 (£4.50) for adults, C$5 (£2.50) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under.

The Perfect Falls View

I love seeing Niagara Falls from the Skylon Tower, but the price of admission seems steep to me. One alternative used to be to come up to the Skylon's revolving restaurant for a midafternoon snack, but even that has become impossible since the place started charging a C$25 (£12.50) minimum per-adult charge at lunch and C$40 (£20) minimum at dinner. (This is a food charge -- money spent on alcohol doesn't count!) There is one strategy that still works: stop by the restaurant after the dinner rush for dessert and coffee; the restaurant will usually waive the minimum charge once the mealtime crowd thins out. Just make sure you ask before you are seated!

A Family Adventure

If you're looking for something to keep the kids amused, visit MarineLand, 7657 Portage Rd. (tel. 905/356-9565; www.marinelandcanada.com). At the aquarium-theater, King Waldorf, the walrus mascot, presides over performances by killer whales, dolphins, and sea lions. Friendship Cove, a 4.5 million-gallon breeding and observation tank, lets the little ones see killer whales up close. Another aquarium features displays of freshwater fish. At the small wildlife display, children enjoy petting and feeding the deer, and seeing bears and Canadian elk.

MarineLand also has theme-park rides, including a roller coaster, a Tivoli wheel (a fancy Ferris wheel), Dragon Boat rides, and a fully equipped playground. The big thriller is Dragon Mountain, a roller coaster that loops, double-loops, and spirals through 305m (1,000 ft.) of tunnels. You can picnic or eat at one of the three restaurants.

In summer, admission is C$40 (£20) for adults and children 10 and over, C$33 (£17) for children 5 to 9, and free for children 4 and under. Open daily July and August from 9am to 6pm; mid-April to mid-May and September to mid-October from 10am to 4pm; and mid-May to June from 10am to 5pm. Closed November through mid-April. Rides open in late May and close the first Monday in October. In town, drive south on Stanley Street and follow the signs; from the QEW, take the McLeod Road exit.