Attractions

Enjoying Noboribetsu's Natural Wonders

Taking the Local Waters -- Although all the spa hotels and ryokan have their own taps into the spring water, almost everyone who comes to Noboribetsu Onsen makes a point of going to the most famous hotel bath in town, Dai-ichi Takimotokan (tel. 0143/84-2111; www.takimotokan.co.jp), one of the first bathhouses to open at the hot springs. Now a huge, modern bathing hall with some 30 tubs and pools containing different mineral contents at various temperatures, it's an elaborate affair with hot-spring baths and Jacuzzis both indoors and out, saunas, steam rooms, and waterfall massage (this is one of my favorites -- you sit under the shooting water and let it pummel your neck and shoulders). Although the baths are separate for men and women, there's an indoor swimming pool for families with a slide and play area for children, so be sure to bring your swimsuit. If you're staying at the Dai-ichi Takimotokan or Takimoto Inn, you can use the baths for free at any time -- in the evenings, don't miss bathing in the outdoor baths, where you can order beer, soft drinks, or sake and enjoy the nice mountain scenery. Otherwise, Dai-ichi Takimotokan is open to the public daily from 9am to 6pm (you must enter by 5pm); the charge is ¥2,000 for adults, half-price for children 3 to 12.

Hell Valley (Jigokudani) -- To get an idea of what all this hot water looks like, visit Hell Valley at the north edge of town past the Dai-ichi Takimotokan hotel. This volcanic crater 446m (1,485 ft.) in diameter has a huge depression full of bubbling, boiling water and rock formations of orange and brown. As you walk the concrete path that winds along the left side of the crater (called Hell Valley Promenade), keep an eye down below to the right for a tiny shrine dedicated to the deity that protects eyes (those most in need are apt to miss it); local lore says that if you rub some of the protective water over ailing eyes, they'll be cured. Farther along, you'll soon reach a sign for OYUNUMA and a path leading uphill to the left through lush woods; if you follow it for about 10 minutes, you'll come to a lookout point over a large pond of hot bubbling water called Oyunuma (the lookout is across the road; it's another 5-min. walk to the pond). Return to the road and turn right (west) and then right again on the road leading downhill, where you will soon see a hiking path on the left that runs alongside the steaming Oyunuma River; halfway down is a natural foot bath. If you want to take a different route back, return to the road and the Oyunuma path but look for the Funamiyama (Mount Funami) Promenade to the right. It traces the backbone of several ridges, passing a number of small stone guardians before ending up back at Hell Valley.

Un-Bearable Park

As you wander around Noboribetsu Onsen, you'll see advertisements for a bear park and an Ainu village attraction. The best thing about this place is the trip via ropeway -- the bear park occupies one of the tallest hills around. The 135 or so bears, however, are crowded together in concrete pens in one of the saddest sights I've ever seen, and the Ainu "village" is just a few huts. Although the bears, many of them rescued from extermination or brought here as orphaned cubs, are luckier than some of their peers (government policy advocated the extermination of Hokkaido brown bears in the 1950s and still allows some of the remaining wild bears to be hunted and culled annually), the admission (including ropeway) of ¥2,520 is too high a price for this joyless place. Skip it -- you're better off spending your money elsewhere. Or donate money for a cause: Dedicated employees bent on saving brown bears here have begun a nonprofit organization in hopes of moving the bears off the mountain to a place where there's more room.