Attractions

Downtown Norfolk's centerpiece is the MacArthur Center, a 1-million-square-foot shopping mall covering the 9 square blocks bordered by Monticello and City Hall avenues, Freemason Street, and St. Paul's Boulevard (tel. 757/627-6000; www.shopmacarthur.com). The main entrance is on Monticello Avenue at Market Street. Anchored by Nordstrom and Dillard's department stores, it has most of the mall regulars, an 18-screen cinema, a food court, and full-service restaurants.

Built in 1983 between Waterside Drive and the Elizabeth River, the Waterside Festival Marketplace (tel. 757/627-3300; www.watersidemarketplace.com), which everyone calls simply The Waterside, was the catalyst for downtown Norfolk's revitalization, like Baltimore's Inner Harbor, Boston's Faneuil Hall, and New York's South Street Seaport. The Elizabeth River Ferry and harbor cruises leave from the dock outside this glass-and-steel pavilion. With so much of its shopping business now going to the MacArthur Center, The Waterside now is primarily a dining and entertainment center.

In Town Point Park, to the west of The Waterside, don't miss The Homecomer, a statue of a returning sailor greeted by his wife and child, and the moving Armed Forces Memorial, where bronze letters written home by sailors litter the ground. The park's amphitheater features a full schedule of free events all year -- concerts, children's theater, magic shows, puppetry, and more. Beyond the park stand the riverfront's most conspicuous buildings, the huge gray NAUTICUS, The National Maritime Center and the glass-enclosed, semicircular Half Moone Cruise and Celebration Center, the city's modern cruise-ship terminal (www.cruisenorfolk.org).

East of the Elizabeth River bridges and I-264, Harbor Park, a 12,000-seat stadium, is home to the Norfolk Tides, a Class AAA International League baseball team affiliated with the Baltimore Orioles (tel. 757/622-2222; www.norfolktides.com).

Norfolk's Cannonball & Civil War Trails

Two self-guided walking tours of downtown will take you through 400 years of Norfolk's history. Beginning at the Freemason Street Reception Center, 401 E. Freemason St., sidewalk inlays and medallions mark the route of the Cannonball Trail through downtown, along the waterfront, and through the historic Freemason neighborhood. The local version of Virginia's Civil War Trails follows much the same route but with an emphasis on Norfolk in 1862. Pick up maps and brochures at the visitor centers.

Tours of the Naval Station

In these days of tight security at military bases, the Naval Station Norfolk Tour operated by Hampton Roads Transit (HRT; tel. 757/222-6100; www.gohrt.com) is the only way to go ashore in the huge complex and see the aircraft carriers and other ships. The tours depart from the Naval Station Tour Center, 9079 Hampton Blvd., every 30 minutes or every hour, depending on time of year. Fares are $7.50 for adults; $5 for seniors, children younger than 12, and persons with disabilities. All persons 16 and older will need a picture ID to get on the base. Backpacks are not permitted on the base. Call for reservations.