Fifteen hours may seem like a long time to be on a ferry. But you'll never get bored as the Queen of the North noses its way through an incredibly scenic series of channels and calm inlets, flanked by green forested islands. Whales, porpoises, salmon, bald eagles, and sea lions line the route past the mostly uninhabited coastline. This 491km (304-mile) BC Ferries run between Port Hardy and Prince Rupert follows the same route as expensive Alaska-bound cruise ships, but at a fraction of the cost. And in midsummer, with the north's long days, the trip is made almost entirely in daylight.
The ferry from Port Hardy initially crosses a couple hours' worth of open sea -- where waters can be rough -- before ducking behind Calvert Island. Except for a brief patch of open sea in the Milbanke Sound north of Bella Bella, the rest of the trip follows a narrow, protected channel between the mainland and a series of islands.
The actual Inside Passage begins north of Bella Bella, as the ferry ducks behind mountainous Princess Royal and Pitt islands. The passage between these islands and the mainland is very narrow -- often less than a mile wide. The scenery is extraordinarily dramatic: Black cliffs drop thousands of feet directly into the channel, notched with hanging glacial valleys and fringed with forests. Powerful waterfalls shoot from dizzying heights into the sea. Eagles float along thermal drafts, and porpoises cavort in the ferry's wake. Even in poor conditions (the weather is very unpredictable here), this is an amazing trip.
The 410-foot Queen of the North carries up to 750 passengers and 157 vehicles. On board, you'll find a cafeteria, snack bar, buffet-style dining, playroom, business center, and gift shop. From mid-May to early October, the ferry makes the journey north one day, returning south the next. The rest of the year, service gradually drops to about one ferry per week each way. Mid-summer one-way fares between Prince Rupert and Port Hardy are C$110 (US$88) per adult car passenger or walk-on, C$263 (US$210) for a normal-size vehicle. A car with two passengers adds up to C$483 (US$386). Reservations are mandatory. The ship's cabins rent for between C$55 and C$65 (US$44-US$52) for day use. Ferry service to/from Prince Rupert and Port Hardy continues at least once weekly the rest of the year, with somewhat lower fares. See the BC Ferries website for dates and prices.
In summer, the ferry leaves both Prince Rupert and Port Hardy at 7:30am, so under normal circumstances, you'll arrive at your destination at 10:30pm -- thus you probably won't need a cabin to sleep in. You should, however, make lodging reservations at your destination in advance; by the time the ship docks and you wait to drive your car off, it can be close to midnight.
At Prince Rupert, you can also catch an Alaska Marine Highway ferry (tel. 800/642-0066; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs), which stops here on its run between Bellingham, Washington, and Skagway, Alaska. Passenger fare from Prince Rupert to Skagway is C$183 (US$146) per adult; a car and two adult passengers costs C$771 (US$617). The trip can range anywhere from 30 to 50 hours, depending on the number of stops.
