Volos
The energetic port city of Volos lies just off the National Road almost precisely halfway between Athens and Thessaloniki. Volos's location and seaside charm make it a great place to break up your journey. Legend has it that Jason and the Argonauts set sail from Volos when they began their journey in search of the Golden Fleece. Today, many tourists pass through Volos en route to the villages of Mount Pelion or when they catch a ferry to one of the Sporades islands, but few stay here -- a pity, because Volos has a terrific waterfront packed with cafes and restaurants, a fine archaeological museum, and is close to four important ancient sites. The Hotel Aegli, 24 Argonauton, on the waterfront (tel. 24210/24-471; www.aegli.gr), has rooms with balconies and seaside view from 100€. The nearby Park Hotel, 2 Deligiorgi (tel. 24210/36-511), is another good bet, with rooms from 120€. The Aegli is just steps away from excellent inexpensive restaurants, including Apostolis, 15 Argonauton (tel. 24210/26-973), and the Ouzerie Iolkos, 32 Argonauton (tel. 24210/35-277). Don't be surprised if you see customers washing their meals down with ouzo instead of wine or beer: Volos produces (and drinks!) much of Greece's national drink. The Archaeological Museum, 1 Athanasaki (tel. 24210/25-285), has a superb collection of rare painted Hellenistic grave monuments and a wonderful rose garden with fallen columns and ancient statues. Just beyond the garden is a seaside park with replicas of several Neolithic houses. Some of the finds at the museum come from four nearby and easy-to-find ancient sites: Neolithic Dimini and Sesklo, with the remains of some of Greece's oldest habitations, Hellenistic Demetrias, with the remains of a royal palace, theater and fortifications, and Nea Anchialos (ancient Pyrasos), which has Greek, Roman, and extensive early Christian remains. The efficient Volos Information Center on Grigoriou Lambraki and Sekeri (tel. 24210/20-273) is usually open 8am to 8pm weekdays, 9am to 4pm weekends. If you decide to spend a half day visiting the ancient sites, try to end up at Nea Anchialos, which has a string of cafes and tavernas on the seashore a few blocks from the ancient site. Locals praise the taverna Alexandros, which is usually closed on Tuesday, which, alas, is the day I was last in town.
