Fast Facts

American Express -- There is an American Express office in Venice at San Marco 1471 on salizzada San Moise, just west of Piazza San Marco (tel. 041-520-0844). There is also one in Milan at Via Brera 3 (tel. 02-876-674).

Area Codes -- Every city and its surrounding towns have a separate city code. The code for Venice is 041. The code for Milan is 02.

Business Hours -- General open hours for stores, offices, and churches are from 9:30am to noon or 1pm and again from 3 or 3:30pm to 7:30pm. That early afternoon shutdown is the riposo, the Italian siesta. Most stores close all day Sunday and many also on Monday (morning only or all day). Some shops, especially grocery stores, also close Thursday afternoons. Some services and business offices are open to the public only in the morning. Traditionally, museums are closed Mondays, and though some of the biggest stay open all day long, many close for riposo or are only open in the morning (9am-2pm is popular). Some churches open earlier in the morning, but the largest often stay open all day. Banks tend to be open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm and 2:30 to 3:30pm or 3 to 4pm.

Use the riposo as the Italians do -- take a long lunch, stroll through a city park, cool off in the Duomo, travel to the next town, or simply go back to your hotel to regroup your energies. The riposo is an especially welcome custom during the oppressive afternoon heat of August.

Drugstores -- You'll find green neon crosses above the entrances to most farmacie (pharmacies). You'll also find many erborista (herbalist) shops, which usually offer more traditional herbal remedies (some of which are marvelously effective) along with the standard pharmaceuticals. Most farmacie of any stripe keep everything behind the counter, so be prepared to point or pantomime. Some help: Most minor ailments start with the phrase mal di in Italian, so you can just say "Mahl dee" and point to your head, stomach, throat, or whatever. Pharmacies rotate which will stay open all night and on Sundays, and each store has a poster outside showing the month's rotation.

Electricity -- Italy operates on a 220 volts AC (50 cycles) system, as opposed to the United States' 110 volts AC (60 cycle) system. You'll need a simple adapter plug (to make our flat pegs fit their round holes) and, unless your appliance is dual-voltage (as some hair dryers and travel irons are), an electrical currency converter. You can also pick up the hardware at electronics, travel specialty stores, luggage shops, airports, and Magellan's catalog (www.magellans.com).

Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy is in Rome at Via Vittorio Veneto 119a (tel. 06-46-741; fax 06-488-2672 or 06-4674-2217; www.usembassy.it). The U.S. consulate in Milan is at Via Principe Amedeo 2/10 (tel. 02-675-81) open to drop-ins Monday through Friday from 9am to 12:30pm, afternoons 2 to 4:30pm; call ahead to see if you can visit by appointment. The U.K. Embassy is in Rome at Via XX Settembre 80a (tel. 06-4220-0001; fax 06-4220-2334; www.britain.it), open Monday through Friday from 9:15am to 1:30pm. The U.K. consulate in Milan is at Via San Paolo 7 (tel. 02-230-01). It's open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 4:30pm. The Canadian Embassy in Rome is at Via Zara 30, on the fifth floor (tel. 06-445-981 or 06-44598-2905; www.canada.it), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 4pm. The Canadian consulate in Milan is at Via Pisani 19 (tel. 02-675-81) and is open the same hours. The Australian Embassy in Rome is at Via Alessandria 215 (tel. 06-852-721; fax 06-8527-2300; www.australian-embassy.it). The Australian consulate in Milan is at Via Borgogna 2 (tel. 02-777-041) and is open Monday through Thursday from 9am to noon and 1:30 to 4pm. The New Zealand Embassy in Rome is at Via Zara 28 (tel. 06-441-7171; fax 06-440-2984), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 12:45pm and 1:45 to 5pm. The consulate in Milan is at Via Arezzo 6 (tel. 02-4801-2544) and is open Monday to Friday 9 to 11am.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 113 for any emergency. You can also call tel. 112 for the carabinieri (police), tel. 118 for an ambulance, or tel. 115 for the fire department. If your car breaks down, dial tel. 116 for roadside aid courtesy of the Automotive Club of Italy.

Etiquette & Customs

Appropriate Attire: You'll find that Italian men in the cities will almost never wear short shorts, unless they are jogging or on their way to the beach, where such attire, in their view, belongs. In general, women can bare as much skin as they like, with the notable exception of in religious shrines, such as St. Peter's in Rome and San Francesco in Assisi, where shoulders and legs should be covered. On the whole, you'll be most comfortable in Italian cities if you dress to impress.

Gestures: Italians famously have a huge vocabulary of hand gestures to communicate all sorts of sentiments. The offensive ones are essentially identical to those in America and the U.K., but one extra one to avoid is pointing your index finger and pinkie at the same time (think the University of Texas "hook'em horns" gesture), which means "Your wife is cheating on you" -- or "is giving you the horns," in Italian.

Avoiding Offense: When trying out your Italian on a stranger, it's always best to use the formal "Lei" form, rather than "tu," to avoid offense, although any slip-up will be likely chalked up to inexperience with the language. In general, Italians are not easily offended by any foul language or topic of conversation. There are very few taboos.

Eating & Drinking: Eating with your arms or elbows on the table is not only acceptable in Italy, it is preferable to keeping them under the table (because, who knows what they're doing down there?) Also, don't be afraid to eat with the fork in your left hand, especially if your right hand is using a knife. Finally, when toasting, it is polite practice to look someone in the eyes when clinking glasses.

In terms of punctuality, the term doesn't really exist in Italy, especially as you venture farther south. Arriving 10 minutes late is more the norm than the exception to the rule.

For further reading about cultural quirks, pick up The Global Etiquette Guide to Europe (Wiley Publishing, Inc.)

Hospitals -- The emergency ambulance number is tel. 118. Hospitals in Italy are partially socialized, and the care is efficient, very personalized, and high quality. There are also well-run private hospitals. Pharmacy staff tend to be very competent healthcare providers, so for less serious problems, their advice will do fine. For non-life-threatening, but still concerning, ailments you can just walk into most hospitals and get taken care of speedily -- no questions about insurance policies, no forms to fill out, and no fees to pay. Most hospitals will be able to locate someone who speaks English well.

Internet Access -- Cybercafes are in healthy supply in most Italian cities. In smaller towns you may have a bit of trouble, but increasingly hotels are setting up Internet points. In a pinch, hostels, local libraries, and, often, pubs will have a terminal for access.

Language -- Though Italian is the local language around these parts, English is a close second, especially among anyone below about age 40, since they all learned it in school. Anyone in the tourism industry will know the English they need to help smooth transactions with you. Besides, most Italians are delighted to help you learn a bit of their lingo as you go.

Legal Aid -- Your embassy or consulate can provide a list of foreign attorneys should you encounter legal problems in Italy. In criminal cases, if you cannot afford an attorney, the local court will provide one for you.

Liquor Laws -- Driving drunk is illegal and not a smart idea on any road -- especially not on Italy's twisting, narrow roads. The legal drinking age in Italy is 16, but that's just on paper. Public drunkenness (aside from people getting noisily tipsy and flush at big dinners) is unusual except among some street people -- usually among foreign vagabonds, not the Italian homeless.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

To report a lost or stolen card, call the following Italian toll-free numbers: Visa at tel. 800-819-014, MasterCard at tel. 800-870-866, or American Express at tel. 800-872-000 or collect tel. 336-393-1111 from anywhere in the world. As a backup, write down the collect-call number that appears on the back of each of your cards (not the toll-free number -- you can't dial those from abroad; if one doesn't appear, call the card company and ask). If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800-325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- The Italian mail system is notoriously slow, and friends back home may not receive your postcards or aerogrammes for up to 8 weeks (sometimes longer). Postcards, aerogrammes, and letters, weighing up to 20 grams (.7 oz.), to North America cost .52€ (68¢), to the United Kingdom and Ireland .41€ (53¢), and to Australia and New Zealand .52€ (67¢).

Newspapers & Magazines -- The International Herald Tribune (published by the New York Times and with news catering to Americans abroad) and USA Today are available at just about every newsstand, even in smaller towns. You can find the Wall Street Journal Europe, European editions of Time and Newsweek, The Economist, and just about any major European newspaper or magazine at the larger kiosks.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800-567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01-671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021-272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800-225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100; or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency; or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870-521-0410, or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877-487-2778) for automated information.

Police -- For emergencies, call tel. 113. Italy has several different police forces, but there are only two you'll most likely ever need to deal with. The first is the urban polizia, whose city headquarters is called the questura and can help with lost and stolen property. The most useful branch -- the cops to go to for serious problems and crimes -- is the carabinieri (tel. 112), a national order-keeping, crime-fighting civilian police force.

Restrooms -- Public toilets are going out of fashion in Italy, but most bars will let you use their bathrooms without scowling or forcing you to buy anything. If not, they will simply hang a sign, erroneously informing you that it is out of order. Ask "Posso usare il bagno?" (poh-soh oo-zar-eh eel ban-yo). Donne/signore are women and uomini/signori men. Train stations usually have a bathroom, for a fee, often of the two-bricks-to-stand-on-and-a-hole-in-the-floor Turkish toilet variety. In many of the public toilets that remain, the little old lady with a basket has been replaced by a coin-op turnstile.

Safety -- Other than the inevitable pickpockets, random violent crime is practically unheard of in the country. You won't find quite as many pickpocketing children as in Rome; inexplicably, their counterparts in Milan rarely steal anything (though they do beg). Still, if you see a small group or pair of dirty children coming at you, often waving cardboard and jabbering in Ital-English, yell "Va via!" (go away) or simply "No!," or invoke the polizia. If they get close enough to touch you, push them away forcefully -- don't hold back because they're kids -- otherwise within a nanosecond you and your wallet will be permanently separated.

To be extra safe, you can keep your passport, traveler's checks, credit and ATM cards (if you feel the need to), and a photocopy of all your important documents under your clothes in a money belt or neck pouch. For women: Keep your purse on the facade side of the sidewalk and sling the strap across your chest. If your purse has a flap, keep the clasp side facing your body. For men: Keep your wallet in your front pocket and perhaps loop a rubber band around it. (The rubber catches on the fabric of your pocket and makes it harder for a thief to slip the wallet out easily.) Although, honestly, I would feel more of a need to say this in parts of New York than in northern Italy.

Smoking -- Smoking has recently been eradicated from all restaurants and bars in Italy, as well as many hotels. That said, there are still smokers in Italy, and they tend to take the outside tables. Be aware that if you are keen for an outdoor table, you are essentially choosing a seat in the smoking section, and a request for your neighbor not to smoke may not be politely received.

Taxes -- There's no sales tax added onto the price tag of your purchases, but there is a 20% value-added tax (in Italy: IVA) automatically included in just about everything. For major purchases, you can get this refunded. Some five-star and four-star hotels don't include the 13% luxury tax in their quoted prices. Ask when making your reservation.

Time Zone -- Italy is 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States. When it's noon in New York, it's 6pm in Venice.

Tipping -- In hotels, a service charge is usually included in your bill. In family-run operations, additional tips are unnecessary and sometimes considered rude. In fancier places with a hired staff, however, you may want to leave a .50€ (65¢) daily tip for the maid, pay the bellhop or porter 1€ ($1.30) per bag, and a helpful concierge 2€ ($2.60) for his or her troubles. In restaurants, 10% to 15% is almost always included in the bill -- to be sure, ask "è incluso il servizio?" -- but you can leave up to an additional 10%, especially for good service. At bars and cafes, a generous gesture is to leave a 1€ coin per drink on the counter for the barman; if you sit at a table, leave 10% to 15% but only if the service is good. Taxi drivers expect 10% to 15%.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory (tel. 202-647-5225, manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 202-647-0518); U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline (tel. 404-332-4559).

Water -- Although most Italians take mineral water with their meals, tap water is safe everywhere, as are any public drinking fountains you run across. Unsafe sources will be marked "acqua non potabile." If tap water comes out cloudy, it's only the calcium or other minerals inherent in a water supply that often comes untreated from fresh springs. Also, the water from fountains in public parks is not only potable, it's often the freshest tasting water you've ever had.