A Walk on the Wild Side: State Bridge and Rancho Del Rio -- Established in 1890, State Bridge Lodge has had its share of history. Its location -- a stone's throw from the Colorado River and the railroad tracks -- means it was a highly trafficked area even before the state built the bridge of the same name here in the late 1800s. Teddy Roosevelt slept here while serving as the country's vice president in 1901. But the lodge has had its share of changes and ups and downs since, emerging as a biker and hippie haven in recent years. The rough edges remain, but new ownership has put a needed polish on the old lodge, with its basic cabins ($79-$169), yurts ($69-$189), and campsites (free). The train still screeches through 20 times a day, there is still live music (primarily jam, reggae, and bluegrass bands) on a great outdoor stage, and the free landing spot for river rafters is right across the street. There's a restaurant and historic bar and a small store that can help arrange rafting trips. Behind the lodge is the State Bridge Anomaly, an interesting red volcanic formation that's worth hiking.
For more information, contact State Bridge Lodge and River Resort (tel. 970/653-4444; www.statebridge.com). The lodge is located at Colorado 131 and Trough Road, 13 miles north of I-70, exit 157.
Beyond the concerts at State Bridge, many visitors come to the area to go rafting from Rancho Del Rio, a former hippie commune that's now one of the last remaining river communities of its kind, a haven for river rats who live in the assorted cabins and trailers here. The slow waters of the Upper Colorado River in this area are perfect for beginners and families; even first-timers will be comfortable paddling the river solo. The Colorado River Center (tel. 888/888-7238 or 970/653-7238; www.coloradorivercenter.com), offers rentals, shuttles, lessons, and guided rafting trips. We recommend renting a "duckie" (an inflatable kayak) and paddling it to State Bridge and then getting a shuttle back to Rancho. Then it's time for a bite and a beer at K.K.'s BBQ, also known as The Center of the Universe. An outdoor bar and grill with jars of homemade pickles and pots of homemade sauce and slices of homemade pies, this is the most fun you can have at a meal in the Northern Rockies. Eponymous proprietor K. K. is quite the character and a one-woman act, cooking ribs and sausages, making sundaes and change, telling jokes, and generally entertaining everyone within earshot. We love the 4K, a burger with a split Italian sausage on top and a heap of fresh jalapenos under molten cheese. K.K. opens at 11am and closes at 5pm Saturday to Monday between Memorial Day and the last Sunday in September.
For more information, contact Rancho Del Rio, 4199 Trough Rd., Bond, CO 80423 (tel. 970/653-4431; www.ranchodelrio.com). Beyond the rafting and barbecue, there is a campground ($2 per person per night), a pair of rental cabins ($60-$70 a night), and fly-fishing guides.
