Northern Thailand is composed of 15 provinces and borders Myanmar (Burma) to the northwest and Laos to the northeast. This verdant, mountainous terrain, which includes Thailand's largest mountain, 2563m (8,408-ft.) Doi Inthanon, supports nomadic farming, teak logging at high altitudes, and systematic agriculture in the valleys. The hill-tribes' traditional poppy crops have largely been replaced with rice, tobacco, soybeans, corn, and sugarcane. Northeast of Chiang Mai, lowland farmers also cultivate seasonal fruits such as strawberries, longan (lamyai), mandarin oranges, mango, and melon. The lush fields and winding rivers make sightseeing -- particularly in the spring -- a visual treat. Lumber (especially teak), textiles, mining, handicrafts, and tourism-related industries also contribute to the growing northern economy.
Getting There
Before the 1920s, when the railway's Northern Line to Chiang Mai was completed, one traveled throughout this area either by long-tail boat or elephant. So when your train ride gets boring or the flight is crowded, remember that the original trip here took more than 2 weeks.
By Plane -- Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, and new budget carriers One-Two-GO, Nok Air, and Air Asia all fly from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Nan and Phrae. SGA Airways' excellent light aircraft service links Pai and Chiang Rai with Chiang Mai. There are also flights between many of these destinations and to, or from, Phitsanulok (in central Thailand). Bangkok Airways connects Bangkok and Chiang Mai with a stop in Sukhothai in the central plains.
By Train -- Express and rapid trains leave Bangkok daily for Chiang Mai, the northern terminus. Sleeper cars are available on certain trains and are highly recommended for the 13-hour overnight trip (reserve as early as possible).
By Bus -- There are dozens of daily and nightly air-conditioned VIP buses to Chiang Mai and other northern cities, as well as a cheaper, less comfortable, bus from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal.
Getting Around
By Taxi -- In late 2004, a dozen or so new taxis finally arrived in Chiang Mai heralding what was hoped to be the advent of metered fares. But, because of the simple laws of demand, they simply set up their own work hours and rules. Often drivers refuse to use the meter except for very short hops, easily charging up to 100 times Bangkok rates. They are hard to find on weekdays and even harder to hire on Sundays -- when taxi drivers take their families out. If you can find one, negotiate hard and ask for the driver's namecard and mobile phone number. Many drivers are ex-army or police and therefore do not take kindly to accusations of racketeering; it's often foolish (and pointless) to take them to task.
By Public Bus -- There's a frequent, inexpensive bus service between Chiang Mai and other northern cities. You'll also find songtaews (shared pickup trucks) fitted with long bench seats (also known locally as seelor) along the streets of Chiang Mai as well as all the major roads throughout the north. They have no fixed schedule, stopping points, or price; just flag them down and ask how much they are.
By Car -- Renting your own car offers you freedom and the chance to see some beautiful countryside at your own pace; main roads are well-paved with frequent petrol stations. It must be stressed, however, that upcountry driving regulations do not really exist, and in some seasons -- especially at festivals -- drunk driving, passing on blind bends, or overtaking in the lane reserved solely for uphill drivers is especially common. Both Budget Car Rental and Avis have branches in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, and rent out a selection of vehicles. While these larger rental companies have better insurance policies, they will cost more. Patronizing local companies in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai will save you money, but cost you dearly if you end up in an accident or hospitalized (remember Thais usually don't carry any insurance). If you're driving out to mountain destinations, select the best-maintained car on the lot (older cars are only for in-town driving). Refer to the "Getting Around" section in chapters 12 and 13 for specific office locations and rates. Consider hiring a car and driver from a smaller private company for 1,200B (US$34/£18) per day, depending on the distance traveled and fuel usage.
By Motorcycle -- Motorcycle touring in northern Thailand is another option and best considered only in dry season, over the winter. Chiang Mai can be used as a hub for the region. Inexperienced riders should stick to day trips, and all should arm themselves with up-to-date information about the weather. Hot, precipitous roads doused in monsoon showers make for an early (and easy) death. Stay left, expect the unexpected (such as head on traffic, putrid exhaust fumes from farmers' trucks, and total abandonment of road rules), and keep to 40 to 50kpm to be safe. Carry a map to be sure you don't stray into Myanmar (Burma). No one in his or her right mind would dream of riding without full medical insurance, so do make an investment. Bear in mind some of Chiang Mai's hospitals are notoriously ill-equipped, obliging serious accident victims to be evacuated by air to Bangkok.
