Regions in Brief

Northern Thailand is comprised of 15 provinces, many of them sharing borders with Myanmar (Burma) to the north and west and Laos to the northeast. This verdant, mountainous terrain, including Thailand's largest mountain, Doi Inthanon, at 2,563m (8,408 ft.) supports nomadic farming and teak logging at high altitudes and systematic agriculture in the valleys. The hilltribes' traditional poppy crops have largely been replaced with rice, tobacco, soybeans, corn, and sugarcane.

North and east of Chiang Mai, lowland farmers also cultivate seasonal fruits such as strawberries, longan, mandarin oranges, mango, and melon; the lush, tended fields and winding rivers make sightseeing, particularly in the spring, a visual treat.

In addition to agriculture, lumber (especially teak), textiles and mining, handicrafts and tourism-related cottage industries contribute to the growing northern economy.

Though nothing compared to colossal Bangkok, the city of Chiang Mai is expanding, sprouting far-reaching suburbs and drawing Thai and expatriate retirees.

Touring the Northern Hills

Heading north of Chiang Mai and its satellite cities, travelers enter a mountainous region promising lots of adventure: the Far North. Rugged landscape, proximity to Myanmar (Burma) and Laos, and the diverse ethnic hilltribe groups living here distinguish northern Thailand from the rest of the country. The mighty Mekong River flows southeast from the Golden Triangle, the opium-producing region straddling Burma and Laos, and the river traces a path along dense jungles and teak forests. This is the land of the elephants, of the ancient Lanna culture, of hilltribes, bordertowns and adventure around every turn.

Connected by highways that wind through forested mountains, descend into picturesque valleys, and pass through quaint farming villages, northern points are best explored overland, in a rented vehicle. There are lookout viewpoints along the way, and plenty of places to stop and eat, refuel, relax, and stay. Travelers choose from a number of routes: from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, north from Chiang Rai to the Burma/Laos/Thai border at the Golden Triangle or the rugged area northwest of Chiang Mai known as the Mae Hong Son Loop. Any trip in the region means mountain scenery and the opportunity to get to visit with unique ethnic groups and trekking, by foot, Jeep, elephant back, or boat, through the forested hilltribe homelands is very popular.

The Mae Hong Son Loop

Seasoned travelers, given the option, never backtrack and the "Loop" through the rugged hills north and west of Chiang Mai is gaining popularity for that very reason. Connecting the popular tourist destinations of Pai and Mae Hong Son, the circuit continues to out-of-the way Mae Sariang before returning to Chiang Mai. For all but the adventurous, going by tour or a hired car with driver is recommended, but a self-drive means freedom to take side trips and explore at ones own pace. Give yourself at least four days to do it, preferably more, staying one night at least in each town. The road, especially on the northernmost points, is serpentine and precipitous and calls for good driving skills; traffic is not too heavy usually, but drivers must be on alert for everything from water buffalo to slow-moving, overloaded, smoke-belching trucks and buses.

Maps & Information

The most useful resource for a self-guided tour by car or motorbike is a map entitled Mae Hong Son, The Loop (published by the adventurous souls at The Golden Triangle Rider and priced at 175B/$4.25; www.GT-Rider.com). The GT-Rider map gives exacting details of even the smallest dirt track as well as useful site-maps of each town. You can pick it up in any bookstore in Thailand. The TAT office in Chiang Mai or Mae Hong Son are also good resources for maps and advice on side-trips.

Getting Around

By Car -- This is certainly the best option for doing the circuit or even just touring the hills around Pai and Mae Hong Son. Travel agents and hotels can arrange a car with driver for about 1,500B ($37) per day.

By Motorcycle -- An increasingly popular option, motorcycle travel around the Mae Hong Son Loop means less traffic than your average Thai byway, but the same warnings apply. Wear a helmet, be defensive and remember that there's not much between you and the road. This is recommended for the experienced rider. A variety of good rental bikes are available in Chiang Mai.

By Minivan -- Travel agents in Chiang Mai can arrange group tours.

By Bus -- Regular buses ply the winding tracks between all towns on the loop (Chiang Mai, Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang) but bus travelers are limited in their exploration of the countryside.