Trekking Companies

The problem isn't finding a trek -- there are many companies, from small storefronts to hotel concierges, that offer treks out of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, and Pai -- it's finding the right mix of experienced and knowledgeable guides, an intelligent itinerary, a compatible group, and appropriate timing, all at an acceptable price. There are specific recommendations of reputable outfitters in each section, but be sure to ask for specifics before departure because once out on the trail there will no longer be any room for debate. Consider the criterion below for any tour.

The Guide -- If there's one single element of a trek that will make or break the experience, it's the guide. Most guides come from the low-lying areas in the south of Chiang Mai or from Isan. Few are native to these jungles, although some have quite a few years of experience and most can speak the relevant phrases of a few hilltribe languages (though their command of English is perhaps most important). All guides are required to attend a special 1-month course at Chiang Mai University and must be licensed by the Tourism Authority. Hilltribe guides are familiar with the best trails, are well informed about the area and people, and are usually pretty interesting characters. Try to meet your prospective guide and ask lots of questions.

The Itinerary -- Several well-known Chiang Mai agencies offer regularly scheduled routes. Any company can arrange custom tours for a higher fee. Often, travelers interested in the same remote destination will organize remote itineraries at cheaper, group rates.

For any trek or tour, be sure to get specifics about daily schedules. Most treks involve transport to and from the start and end-point of the trek. How long does it take and what are the conditions? It's usually some three to six hours of unhurried walking each day. Gauge your fitness level and adjust to that or adjust the itinerary. When is lunch/dinner each day? What is lunch/dinner? What are the sleeping arrangements, etc. Nearly all trekking itineraries list the various hilltribe villages visited; try to read as much as you can and decide for yourself which you'd most like to see.

The Group -- I've made lifelong friends on trekking trips and, conversely, spent uncomfortably long days and nights in the company of folks with whom I wouldn't want to share a cab-ride much less days in the jungle. "Life is like a box of chocolates" of course, but if you're planning a long, arduous trip, try to meet your fellow travelers before committing; you might find that their stamina, assumptions, interests, and/or personalities are not compatible with yours. Look for an agency that limits the number of people to about 10 per trek. Having at least 4 in the group minimizes personality clashes and adds conviviality.

The Season -- Northern Thailand has three distinct seasons. The hot season (Mar-May) is dry with temperatures up to 86°F (30°C). It is not too cool really, but certainly more pleasant than the southern parts of the country and many Thais vacation in this region to get away from scorching temperatures elsewhere. The rainy season (June-Oct) is cooler, with the heaviest daily rainfall in September (usually heavy afternoon downpours). While trekking and outdoor activities are still possible, rainy conditions (and mud) should be taken into consideration when packing for your trip. The cool season (Nov-Feb) is brisk, with daytime temperatures as low as 59°F (21°C) in Chiang Mai town, and 41°F (5°C) in the hills. Bring a sweater and some warm socks. November to May is the best time for trekking, with February, March, and April (when southern Thailand gets extremely hot) usually being the most crowded months. In October and November, after the rainfalls, the forests are lush, rivers swell, and waterfalls are more splendid than usual.

What to Bring -- Most trekkers come to Thailand on vacation, totally unprepared for a serious trek which is just fine. Most routes follow well-traveled paths, up and down rolling, cultivated hillsides, and require no special equipment. Good sneakers or walking shoes are usually adequate, though rainy season trekkers will fare better in waterproof, nonskid hiking boots. A wool sweater for evenings and some outerwear to sleep in will come in handy (many trekking companies only provide blankets.) I suggest long pants rather than shorts because of dense underbrush and twilight mosquito assaults. A flashlight, supply of tissues or toilet paper, mosquito repellent, and a basic first-aid kit with blister remedies is also recommended.

Some people like to bring gifts for the villagers they encounter. Kids, as in many parts of the world, will ask for "bon-bon" or "pen" but, however well-meaning, gifts of coloring books, crayons, pencils, and paper for use in school are often sold. A cash gift to the local school is your best bet for constructive philanthropy. Ask your guide for other recommendations because he may know the specific needs of the villagers in the places you'll be visiting.

Price -- Even the most expensive treks cost less than 1 night at a hotel and three restaurant meals. Some negotiation may be in order, especially if you are traveling with a larger group of people; however, these days, most of the treks come at fixed prices. Expect to pay between 500B to 2000B ($12-$49) per person per night depending on the itinerary. Typically, food, transport and equipment (backpack, water bottle, etc.) are included in the fee. Important: be sure to get specifics about what is included. Once on the trail there are no negotiations and many 'a trecker comes down from the hills tired, angry and feeling "taken" because of some often minor misunderstanding. "You get what you pay for" of course, but be sure that you know what you get for what you are paying.