What's New

This is not your father's Waikiki. . . . And if you've been to Waikiki in the past, you may not even recognize it on your next trip. Waikiki has reinvented itself by renovating old hotels and building new ones, widening streets and lining them with flowers, and making over the beachfront decor to carry Waikiki from the 1950s into the 21st century. Shopping malls were upgraded as new, trendy shops moved in, and innovative restaurants came to the world's favorite beach town. Though wired with Wi-Fi Internet connection, this new Waikiki still has the same exotic lure: it's sunny and warm 360 days a year, with gentle surf rolling onto white sand beaches, clear starry nights, sweet-smelling tropical flowers, and the promise of a romance that you'll remember forever.

Smoking Laws -- In addition, the entire state of Hawaii has gone smoke-free, under one of the toughest smoking bans in the country: It's against the law to smoke in public lobbies -- anywhere where there are employees is considered public -- or public buildings, including airports, shopping malls, grocery stores, retail shops, movie theaters, banks, convention facilities, and all government buildings and facilities. It is illegal to smoke in restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. You cannot smoke in parking garages; on lanais, patios, covered walkways, or buses; or at bus stops that have a roof or two sides. The fine is $50.

Most bed-and-breakfasts prohibit smoking indoors, and an increasing number of hotels and resorts are becoming nonsmoking, even in common areas. Also, smoking is prohibited within 20 feet of a doorway, window, or ventilation intake (no hanging around outside a bar to smoke either). Even some beaches have no-smoking policies (and on those that allow smoking, you'd better pick up your butts and not use the sand as your private ashtray -- or you'll face stiff fines).

Where can you smoke? In private homes, of course, or in your car, curbside along the street (but not within 20 ft. of a door or window), or in a tobacco shop. In Hawaii, breathing fresh, clear air is "in" and smoking is "out."

Inter-Island Ferry -- As we went to press, on the horizon was the proposed Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com), a 350-foot vessel able to carry 866 passengers and 282 cars and trucks between Honolulu and Kauai, Maui, and the Big Island at speeds up to 35 knots. The State of Hawaii has committed some $40 million for harbor improvements to accommodate the new ferry service. Hawaii briefly had a ferry service (Super Flite) in the 1970s; but the high winds and waves took their toll on the hydrofoil boat and it lasted only a few years. Proposed fares range from $42 to $62 for passengers and $55 to $75 for cars.

Ocean Safety -- Sharks may make the headlines, but drownings claim far more lives. The City and County of Honolulu has a staff of 200 professional lifeguards (the largest in the nation), but most of the drownings occur at unstaffed beaches. To educate people about ocean safety and explain how the beautiful blue water may harbor numerous dangers, the state maintains several websites, including Hawaii Beach Hazard Forecast (www.oceansafety.soest.hawaii.edu), a partnership between the University of Hawaii and Honolulu's city ocean safety office. Click on the island of your choice for ocean conditions at hundreds of beaches and to learn whether they are safe for swimming.

Accommodations -- The newest hotel in Waikiki is the 421-suite Embassy Suites Hotel-Waikiki Beach Walk, which opened in 2007 with the completion of the Waikiki Beach Walk, where 11 hotels were razed, upgraded, or changed to suites or condos, and 90,000 square feet of swank shops and trendy restaurants were added to match.

These changes inspired other hotel groups to make changes in Hawaii's most famous destination resort. Aqua Hotels and Resorts entered the Waikiki market by upgrading and rebranding several off-the-beach properties: Aqua Coconut Plaza, Aqua Island Colony Hotel, Aqua Waikiki Wave, Equus (formerly the Hawaii Polo Inn), and Hotel Renew (formerly one of the towers in the ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel). Even the boutique hotel Royal Gardens was sold, redecorated (furniture, drapes, carpets, upholstery), and rebranded as the Royal Hotel & Spa.

Hilton also added another property: After massive renovations, the former Radisson Waikiki Prince Kuhio was rebranded the Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio Hotel. Not to be outdone, four of Starwood's five properties in Waikiki -- the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, Sheraton Waikiki, Moana Surfrider, and Sheraton Princess Kaiulani -- are in the midst of a $500-million renovation, which plans to demolish parts of one hotel and add a new hotel and possible timeshare property. Plus, the former Sheraton Moana Surfrider was rebranded Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort.

Finally, the other new property coming to Waikiki is the Trump International Hotel, estimated to open in 2009. When the hotel-condominium went on sale in December 2006, each of the 460 luxury units sold out within just a few hours. The ultra-upscale property will have hotel suites available and offer 24-hour concierge and room service. Other amenities will include a lobby bar, cafe, outdoor swimming pool, private fitness center, and separate lobbies for hotel guests and residents.

Outside of Waikiki, the former Mandarin Kahala Hotel, now under new management, was rebranded the Kahala Hotel & Resort.

Dining -- The dining trend in Honolulu is fresh, fresh, fresh produce, fish, and every ingredient. Following this trend is the new restaurant, Nico's at Pier 38: this open-air casual eatery is located just steps from the Honolulu Fish Auction and features the freshest fish available.

Well-loved Chef George Mavro opened a new, casual bistro, Cassis Honolulu, featuring many of the island-influenced dishes from his upscale Chef Mavro Restaurant. Located across from the Honolulu Harbor, the trendy restaurant quickly became the new "in" spot and is jammed at lunch.

Falling in line with the new, improved Waikiki, the Hilton Waikiki Prince Hotel opened MAC 24-7 (which stands for Modern American Cooking, 24 hr. a day, 7 days a week), serving a menu that has everything from breakfast, lunch, and dinner to snacks and desserts. On the North Shore, Ola at Turtle Bay Resort, a small open-air pavilion right on the sandy beach, features the healthy, organic cuisine of Chef Fred DeAngelo.

Activities -- Adding to the updated, hipper Waikiki are several new tours: Glide Ride Tours and Rentals, offering tours of Waikiki on a fleet of Segways; Oahu Ghost Tours, which seeks Honolulu's supernatural; and, more down to earth, Hawaii Coffee Company's behind-the-scenes look at the largest coffee plant in the state.

Museums -- The Pacific Aviation Museum opened on December 7, 2006, the 65th anniversary of the bombing of Pearl Harbor, in a 42,442-square-foot hangar next to the famous ships, the USS Arizona and USS Missouri. The museum tells the story of military aviation in the Pacific during World War II via original, historical aircrafts, documentary films, displays, and (my favorite) the interactive simulated aircraft control where you can "fly" either an American or Japanese plane.

Shopping -- A tsunami of new retail stores is planned: By 2009, retail shops will increase an unprecedented 25% over current space. Most of the new retailers will be located in leeward Oahu, the largest growing population on the island. Planned are: two regional malls, five big-box discount stores, a handful of community shopping centers, and major additions to Ala Moana Shopping Center and Ward centers.

In Waikiki, a massive 2-year, $84-million renovation has updated the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center: The renovated mall is filled with open space, lots of light, big windows, and breezeways between shops. The 293,000-square-foot, open-air mall has about 110 stores, restaurants, and entertainment on four levels. The landscaped courtyard features a pond, artesian fountain, stream, and performance area with seating. The second level has a nine-restaurant food court. The biggest change is the exterior finish, which boasts a Polynesian-kapa look. An open-air bridge connects the central area to the wings of the mall (with a panoramic view of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel).

New tenants include Hilo Hattie, Senor Frog, P. F. Chang's, and Roy Tokujo Theatrical Productions; the latter is still under construction, but will feature a nightclub as well as a mammoth high-tech theater with moving stages and acrobatic rigging.

Nightlife -- Sadly, internationally known Hawaiian entertainer Don Ho passed away in 2007, closing his show that had run for decades.