The Bar Scene

On the Beach

Waikiki's beachfront bars offer many possibilities, from the Royal Hawaiian Hotel's Mai Tai Bar (tel. 808/923-7311), a few feet from the sand, to the unfailingly enchanting House Without a Key at the Halekulani (tel. 808/923-2311), where the breathtaking former Miss Hawaii, Kanoelehua Miller, dances hula to the riffs of Hawaiian steel-pedal guitar under a century-old kiawe tree. With the sunset and ocean glowing behind her and Diamond Head visible in the distance, the scene is straight out of Somerset Maugham -- romantic, evocative, nostalgic. It doesn't hurt, either, that the Halekulani happens to make the best mai tais in the world. Halekulani has the after-dinner hours covered, too, with light jazz by local artists from 10:15pm to midnight nightly.

Across the street from Waikiki Beach, Tiki's Grill & Bar, in the ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel (tel. 866/77-HAWAII), has live music every afternoon from 5pm to midnight.

In the Aloha Tower Marketplace

Unlike Waikiki, palm trees don't sway at Aloha Tower Marketplace, which is on the waterfront between piers 8 and 11, Honolulu Harbor (tel. 808/528-5700). But the landmark Aloha Tower at Honolulu Harbor, once Oahu's tallest building, does occupy Honolulu's prime downtown location -- on the water, at a naturally sheltered bay, near the business and civic center of Honolulu. Since its construction, the Aloha Tower Marketplace, 1 Aloha Tower Dr., has gained popularity as an entertainment and nightlife spot, with more than 100 shops and restaurants, including several venues for Honolulu's leading musical groups.

In the Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant (tel. 808/599-4877; www.gordonbiersch.com), diners swing to jazz, blues, and island riffs with a changing slate of entertainers from sunset through the evening Wednesday through Saturday. The food and beer are great, too. The roster of performers includes the cream of the local contemporary music crop, and the Atrium Center Court features ongoing programs of foot-stomping good times. Hours at the Marketplace are daily 8am to midnight.

Most notable, however, is Don Ho's Island Grill (tel. 808/528-0807), a local hotspot, with Willie K. and other musical icons taking the stage throughout the year. It's worth calling to see who's playing. Also check out Chai's Island Bistro (tel. 808/585-0011), one of Honolulu's hottest nightspots.

Downtown

The downtown scene is awakening from a long slumber, thanks to the performances at the Hawaii Theatre and the popular Nuuanu Avenue block parties, courtesy of some tenacious entrepreneurs who want everyone to love Nuuanu as much as they do. Hank's Café on Nuuanu between Hotel and King streets (tel. 808/526-1410; www.hankscafehonolulu.com) is a tiny, kitschy, friendly pub with nightly live music, open-mike nights, and special events that attract great talent and a supportive crowd. On some nights the music spills out into the streets and it's so packed you have to press your nose against the window to see what you're missing. At the makai end of Nuuanu, toward the pier, Murphy's Bar & Grill (tel. 808/531-0422; www.gomurphys.com) and O'Toole's Irish Pub (tel. 808/536-6360), which recently built an entertainment stage, are the downtown ale houses and media haunts that have kept Irish eyes smiling for years.

Chinatown

Bar 35, 35 N. Hotel St (tel. 808/537-3535; www.bar35hawaii.com), is a great watering hole/grill with full bar (110 beers), eats (from pizza to oysters on the half shell), and rock-n-roll music in the background. Happy hour (Mon-Fri 4-8pm) features excellent prices, with beers just $3. Two other bars to check out in Chinatown are Indigo and thirtyninehotel.

Gay Bars & Clubs

The reigning queen of gay bars and clubs in Waikiki is Hula's Bar & Lei Stand, Waikiki Grand, 134 Kapahulu Ave, 2nd floor (tel. 808/923-0669), still going strong after 3 1 2 decades. Overlooking Kapiolani Park, Queen's Surf Beach, and the Honolulu Zoo, Waikiki's most popular and best known gay bar is packed from the 10am opening until last call at 2am the next day. Angles Waikiki, 2256 Kuhio (corner of Seaside Ave.), 2nd floor, (tel. 808/926-9766; www.angleswaikiki.com), is a more relaxed place with people lounging outside on the lanai under a tropical moon. Patrons can also shoot pool, dance, or check out the eye candy posing at the bar. Gay catamaran cruises set sail Sundays (3-7pm). Drag queens gather at Fusion Waikiki, 2260 Kuhio Ave. (near Seaside Ave.), 2nd floor (tel. 808/924-2422) for the Gender Bender Lip Gloss Revue on Fridays and the Paper Doll Revue on Saturdays, plus a male strip show both nights ($5 cover). The clientele tends toward local Hawaii residents at this only after-hours (till 4am) gay bar. The In-Between, 2155 Lau'ula St. (near Lewers St.; tel. 808/926-7060; www.inbetweenonline.com), is a neighborhood gay bar with a great karaoke sound system (you can belt out everything from contemporary hits and Broadway to Hawaiian and country and western).