The Bar Scene

On the Beach

Waikiki's beachfront bars offer many possibilities, from the Royal Hawaiian Hotel's Mai Tai Bar (tel. 808/923-7311), a few feet from the sand, to the unfailingly enchanting House Without a Key, at the Halekulani (tel. 808/923-2311), where the breathtaking former Miss Hawaii, Kanoelehua Miller, dances hula to the riffs of Hawaiian steel-pedal guitar under a century-old kiawe tree. With the sunset and ocean glowing behind her and Diamond Head visible in the distance, the scene is straight out of Somerset Maugham -- romantic, evocative, nostalgic. It doesn't hurt, either, that the Halekulani happens to make the best mai tais in the world. Halekulani has the after-dinner hours covered, too, with light jazz by local artists from 10:15pm to midnight nightly.

Another great bar for watching the sun sink into the Pacific is Duke's Waikiki (tel. 808/922-2268; www.dukeswaikiki.com), in the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach. The outside Barefoot Bar is perfect for sipping a tropical drink, watching the waves and sunset, and listening to music. It can get crowded, so get here early. Hawaii sunset music is usually from 4 to 6pm on weekends, and there's live entertainment nightly from 10pm to midnight.

In the Aloha Tower Marketplace

Unlike Waikiki, palm trees don't sway at Aloha Tower Marketplace, which is on the waterfront, between piers 8 and 11, Honolulu Harbor (tel. 808/528-5700). But the landmark Aloha Tower at Honolulu Harbor, once Oahu's tallest building, does occupy Honolulu's prime downtown location -- on the water, at a naturally sheltered bay, near the business and civic center of Honolulu. Since its construction, the Aloha Tower Marketplace, 1 Aloha Tower Dr., has gained popularity as an entertainment and nightlife spot, with more than 100 shops and restaurants, including several venues for Honolulu's leading musical groups.

In the Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant (tel. 808/599-4877; www.gordonbiersch.com), diners swing to jazz, blues, and island riffs with a changing slate of entertainers from sunset through the evening Wednesday through Saturday. The food and beer are great, too. The roster of performers includes the cream of the local contemporary music crop, and the Atrium Center Court features ongoing programs of foot-stomping good times. Hours at the Marketplace are daily 8am to midnight.

Most notable, however, is Don Ho's Island Grill (tel. 808/528-0807), a local hotspot, with Willie K. and other musical icons taking the stage throughout the year. It's worth calling to see who's playing. Also check out Chai's Island Bistro (tel. 808/585-0011), one of Honolulu's hottest nightspots.

Downtown

The downtown scene is awakening from a long slumber, thanks to the performances at the Hawaii Theatre and the popular Nuuanu Avenue block parties, courtesy of some tenacious entrepreneurs who want everyone to love Nuuanu as much as they do. Hank's Café on Nuuanu between Hotel and King streets (tel. 808/526-1410; www.hankscafehonolulu.com) is a tiny, kitschy, friendly pub with nightly live music, open-mic nights, and special events that attract great talent and a supportive crowd. On some nights, the music spills out into the streets and it's so packed you have to press your nose against the window to see what you're missing. At the makai end of Nuuanu, toward the pier, Murphy's Bar & Grill (tel. 808/531-0422; www.gomurphys.com) and O'Toole's Irish Pub (tel. 808/536-6360), which recently built an entertainment stage, are the downtown ale houses and media haunts that have kept Irish eyes smiling for years.

Chinatown

Bar 35, 35 N. Hotel St. (tel. 808/537-3535; www.bar35hawaii.com), is a great watering hole/grill with full bar (110 beers), eats (from pizza to oysters on the half shell), and rock-n-roll music in the background. Happy hour (Mon-Fri 4-8pm) features excellent prices, with beers discounted.

At the edge of Chinatown is something straight out of 1940s film noir: Indigo's, 1121 Nuuanu Ave. (tel. 808/521-2900; www.indigo-hawaii.com), which serves sizzling food during the day, turns to cool jazz in the early evening, and progresses to late-night DJs spinning Top 40, disco, rock, funk, and more.

Another Chinatown "in" spot is thirtyninehotel, 29 N. Hotel St., between Smith Street and Nuuanu Avenue (tel. 808/599-2552; www.thirtyninehotel.com), where live jazz and visiting and resident DJs rock all night (but during the day, it morphs into an art gallery, featuring contemporary local artists; Tues-Sat noon-6pm). The door is unmarked, with only the address to tell you where you are. Enter and walk up the stairs to the second floor. The cover is $8 to $10.

Gay Bars & Clubs

The reigning queen of gay bars and clubs in Waikiki is Hula's Bar & Lei Stand, Waikiki Grand, 134 Kapahulu Ave., second floor (tel. 808/923-0669), still going strong after 3 1/2 decades. Overlooking Kapiolani Park, Queen's Surf Beach, and the Honolulu Zoo, Waikiki's most popular and best known gay bar is packed from the 10am opening until last call at 2am the next day. Angles Waikiki, 2256 Kuhio (corner of Seaside Ave.), second floor, (tel. 808/926-9766; www.angleswaikiki.com), is a more relaxed place with people lounging outside on the lanai under a tropical moon. Patrons can also shoot pool, dance, or check out the eye candy posing at the bar. Gay catamaran cruises set sail Sundays (3-7pm). Drag queens gather at Fusion Waikiki, 2260 Kuhio Ave. (near Seaside Ave.), second floor (tel. 808/924-2422), for the Gender Bender Lip Gloss Revue on Fridays and the Paper Doll Revue on Saturdays, plus a male strip show both nights ($5 cover). The clientele tends toward local Hawaii residents at this only after-hours (till 4am) gay bar. The In-Between, 2155 Lauula St. (near Lewers St.; tel. 808/926-7060; www.inbetweenonline.com), is a neighborhood gay bar with a great karaoke sound system (you can belt out everything from contemporary hits and Broadway to Hawaiian and country and western).

Waikiki & Surrounding Area

The nightclub scene in Waikiki and Honolulu is just as hot as the sun-kissed beaches during the day. It's more laid-back than in such big cities as New York; dress is casual (though usually slippers, tank tops, or athletic wear are a no-no), and there's no point in even showing up until midnight. The Wave Waikiki, 1877 Kalakaua Ave. (btw. Ala Wai Blvd. and Ena Rd.; tel. 808/941-0424; www.wavewaikiki.com), is one of Hawaii's top dance clubs, with two levels (and two bars), featuring a huge variety of live music and every type of DJ you can think of. Open nightly from 9pm to 4am; cover is $5 to $7 on weekdays and $7 to $10 on weekends (more for special events). Dress code is so laid-back -- all they care about is if you have something on your back and on your feet.

Twice the size of the Wave and filled with dancing, darts, pool, and a sports bar with huge TVs is the Pipeline, 805 Pohukaina St., in Kakaako (tel. 808/589-1999; www.pipelinecafe.net). Patrons here tend to be younger than at the Wave (you can get in at 18 years old, but some events specify 21 and over) and dressed to go clubbing. The cover is generally $5 to $10; concerts are around $20 to $25.

The 20-something crowd, visitors, and military personnel head to Moose McGillycuddy's, 310 Lewers St., in Waikiki (tel. 808/923-0751; www.mooserestaurantgroup.com/waikiki-hawaii.html). Downstairs is a cafe serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner; upstairs is a happening entertainment and dance club. Tuesday is $2 drink night, but with a $5 to $7 cover (it's the busiest night of the week).

Rumours Nightclub, in the lobby of the Ala Moana Hotel, 410 Atkinson Dr. (tel. 808/955-4811), is the disco of choice for those who remember Paul McCartney as something other than Stella's father. The theme changes by the month, but generally, it's the "Big Chill" '60s, '70s, and '80s music on Friday; the "Little Chill" on Saturday; ballroom dancing from 5 to 9pm on Sunday; Top 40 on Tuesday; karaoke on Wednesday; and an "after-work office party" until midnight on Thursday. A spacious dance floor, a good sound system, and Top 40 music draw a mix of generations.