Alan Wong's Restaurant

Alan Wong is one of Hawaii's most sought-after chefs, but the service at his bustling eatery has often suffered because of his popularity. Long waits in front of the elevator have angered many. Still, worshipful foodies come from all over the state, drawn by the food -- which is brilliant -- and a menu that is irresistible. The 90-seat room has a glassed-in terrace and open kitchen. Sensitive lighting and curly koa wall panels accent an unobtrusively pleasing environment -- casual, but not too much so. The menu's cutting-edge offerings sizzle with the Asian flavors of lemongrass, sweet-and-sour, garlic, and wasabi, deftly melded with the fresh seafood and produce of the islands. The California roll is a triumph, made with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobster instead of rice -- served warm. We love the opihi shooters, day-boat scallops, and fresh-fish preparations. But don't get attached to any one item, as the menu changes daily.

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