Side Street Inn

After their own fancy kitchens have closed, some of Honolulu's top chefs head to this off-the-beaten-track neighborhood bar with TVs on the walls and a back room with a dartboard and neon beer signs. Very camp. This small side street near Ala Moana Center is noted more for its seedy bars than for pesto-crusted ahi and gourmet Nalo greens, which makes Side Street Inn such a pleasant surprise. The grinds (that's local slang for "eats") are fabulous, with no pretensions and a spirited local feel. The barbecued baby back ribs in lilikoi (yellow passion fruit) sauce are tender, flavorful, and a steal at $17. My faves are the blackened ahi, pesto-crusted ahi, shrimp scampi, escargots, and tender fresh-steamed Manila clams in a wine-garlic broth. By the end of the meal, you'll be planning when to return.

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