Royal Hawaiian

This flamingo-pink oasis, hidden away among blooming gardens within the concrete jungle of Waikiki, is the height of luxury. Built by Matson steamship lines, the Spanish-Moorish "Pink Palace" opened in 1927 on the same spot where Queen Kaahumanu had her summer palace -- on one of the best stretches of Waikiki Beach.

Pass through the lush garden with a spectacular banyan tree, then step into the black terrazzo-marble lobby, which features hand-woven pink carpets and giant floral arrangements. Historic touches include Hawaiian craft displays (quilts, leis, weaving) by local artists every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and a new guest activity program with ukulele lessons, lei making, lauhala weaving, hula classes, historic tours, and evening "talk story" sessions featuring Hawaiian legends. My heart was won over by the Historic Wing's rooms, which contain carved wooden doors, four-poster canopy beds, flowered wallpaper, and period furniture. If you prefer the newer rooms, the latest decor is more Tommy Bahama, with a tropical palm tree motif.

One of Waikiki's best spas, Abhasa (tel. 808/922-8200; www.abhasa.com), is located on-site. This large contemporary spa concentrates on natural, organic treatments in a soothing atmosphere (the smell of eucalyptus wafts through the air) with everything from the latest aromatherapy thalassotherapy (soaking in a sweet-smelling hot bath of salt water) to shiatsu massages. Its specialty is a cold-laser, anti-aging treatment that promises to give you a refreshed, revitalized face in just 30 minutes.

In the culinary department, the Surf Room is known for its elaborate seafood buffets, while the casual Beach Club features an oceanfront patio that's a great place to start your day. The Royal Hawaiian luau is done in grand style on Monday nights. The hotel's Mai Tai Bar is one of the most popular places in Waikiki for its namesake drink, which supposedly originated here.

Facilities: 2 restaurants; landmark bar; babysitting; bike rentals; excellent year-round children's program; multilingual concierge desk; preferential tee times at various golf courses; excellent nearby fitness room (next door at the Sheraton Waikiki); good-size outdoor pool; room service; full-service spa (Abhasa); watersports equipment rentals

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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