If you are interested in seeing the region's traditional dances, you can check out the small-scale Guelaguetza performed by professional dancers at the Hotel Camino Real on Friday from 7 to 10pm. The cost ($30/£17) includes a buffet. La Casa de Cantera, Murguía 102 (tel. 951/514-7585), offers something similar. The $11 (£6.05) cover is for the show only, which runs every night from 8:30 to 10:15pm. Drinks and supper cost extra. Call for reservations.
Concerts and dance programs take place all year at the Teatro Macedonio de Alcalá, Independencia and Armenta y López. Schedules are often posted by the front doors of the theater. In the early evening, the zócalo is a happening place, with all sorts of people out and about. The municipal brass band and marimba players perform free concerts on alternating nights. As the night wears on, you'll usually find some mariachis hanging about.
For salsa, go to La Candela, Murguía 413 (tel. 951/514-2010), which offers live music Thursday through Saturday from 10:30pm to 2am. The cover is usually $3 (£1.65).