Oliver

52km (32 miles) S of Penticton

The absolute center of the Okanagan fruit-growing orchards is Oliver (pop. 4,300). What makes the area interesting to travelers, however, is its many wineries. Scarcely a tourist town, Oliver exists to serve the needs of local farmers, orchardists, and winemakers. It makes a reasonable stop if you're not obsessed with the resort and watersports lifestyle prevalent in the rest of the Okanagan Valley.

Many of the long-established wineries that put the region's name on the wine-producing map are within a short drive of Oliver. Especially proud of their location are the wineries along the "Golden Mile," situated on the slopes of the mountains west of Oliver along Road 8. Festival of the Grape (tel. 250/498-6321; www.oliverchamber.bc.ca) occurs on the first weekend of October, and is part of the larger Okanagan Wine Festival.

Notable wineries that welcome visitors include Domaine Combret Estate Winery, on Road 13 (tel. 866/837-7647; www.combretwine.com), which has won medals at the annual Chardonnay du Monde competition in Burgundy. Call ahead for tasting room appointments.

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery, Road 8 (tel. 250/498-3537), offers German-style wines, including Riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir, and pinot blanc. Try the crisp Ehrenfelser white wine, which carries intense flavors of apricot and almond. The tasting room is open June through mid-October daily.

Hester Creek Estate Winery, Road 8 (tel. 250/498-4435; www.hestercreek.com), has a boutique that's open daily, plus tours by appointment. Especially nice is the patio, an inviting spot for picnickers. Superior growing conditions found at Hester Creek produce intense fruit flavors.

Inniskillin Okanagan, Road 11 (tel. 250/498-6663; www.inniskillin.com), offers daily tours and tastings. This winery -- the western operations of the famed Niagara-area winery -- produces a distinct selection of red wines such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, Road 7 (tel. 888/846-4676; www.tinhorn.com), is one of the top Okanagan wineries. Self-guided tours allow you to linger; guided tours can be arranged by appointment. Specialties include Gewürztraminer, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet franc, merlot, and ice wine.

Adjacent to a wilderness area and bird sanctuary overlooking Vaseaux Lake, Blue Mountain Vineyards & Cellars, Allendale Road (tel. 250/497-8244; www.bluemountainwinery.com), has tours and tastings by appointment only. Due to its small output, Blue Mountain wines are available only from the winery and at fine restaurants.

International accolades are pouring in to the wines of Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, south of Oliver off Black Sage Road at 100 Burrowing Owl Place (tel. 877/498-0620; www.bovwine.com). In addition to a delicious and highly decorated merlot, the winery offers The Sonora Room, a winery restaurant that serves very up-to-date cuisine designed to match the Borrowing Owl wines (closed in winter). The winery is open for tastings from Easter through October from 10am to 5pm; in winter call ahead for an appointment.

The nicest place to stay in Oliver is the Southwind Inn, 34017 Hwy. 97 S. (tel. 800/661-9922 or 250/498-3442; www.winecountry.net), with high-season doubles for C$109 to C$139 (US$87-US$111). Amenities include a fine restaurant with patio, pub, and outdoor pool.

For more information on the region, contact the Oliver Visitor Info Centre, 36205 93rd St. (tel. 250/498-6321; www.oliverchamber.bc.ca).