Introduction to Olsztyn and the Mazurian Lakes

200km (124 miles) N of Warsaw

To the northeast of Warsaw, and stretching to the border with Russia (Kaliningrad) and Lithuania, lies an enormous expanse of lakes and interconnected waterways, the Mazurian lakes, that form one of the most popular summer vacation destinations for Poles. The medium-size city of Olsztyn (www.olsztyn.com.pl) is a pretty place in its own right, and makes for a good base for starting exploration of the lakes.

Olsztyn was founded in the 14th century by the Teutonic Knights, but passed into Polish hands a century later. It fell under Prussian control at the end of the 18th century and until World War II, the population was mostly German. Much of the city was destroyed during the war and its ethnic-German population expelled.

The lake district proper begins in Mragowo, about 50km (30 miles) east of Olsztyn. The most popular, and arguably the nicest, lakeside town is Mikolajki (70km/432 miles from Olsztyn), just above Lake Sniardwy. Gizycko and Wegorzewo, to the north, are also comfortable lakeside resorts. One of the most popular activities in the lakes region is canoeing, and several organizers run multiday (1- and 2-week) paddle trips throughout the region, with the day spent out on the water and accommodations at night in simple bunks at canoe-rental outlets along the way. In summer, regular ferries also glide between the resorts. Olsztyn's helpful tourist information office can advise on lake outings.