A long-running strip-mall anchor store next to SeaWorld channels Chiang Mai with surprisingly ornate wood carvings, brass, and powerfully romantic private booths. The lemongrass soup is tame, with few chilies, indicating the chef holds back for newbies—but more advanced eaters should choose from the “spicy dishes” section to get the full flair of the cuisine. I like the Thai chili jam stir-fried with veggies and your choice of protein.