Orvieto’s unofficial pasta is umbrichelli, simple flour-and-water spaghetti rolled out unevenly by hand and somewhat chewy—similar to the pici of southern Tuscany, but not as thick. To sample a glass (or buy a bottle) of Orvieto Classico (accompanied by a panino), drop by the Cantina Foresi, Piazza Duomo 2 ((tel) 0763-341-611). Ask to see the small, moldy cellar carved directly into the tufa.
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