Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Osaka's Kansai International Airport (KIX; tel. 072/455-2500; www.kansai-airport.or.jp) receives both domestic and international flights.

The two major domestic airlines that fly into KIX are Japan Airlines (JAL; tel. 800/525-3663 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0120/25-5971 toll-free in Japan; www.jal.com) and All Nippon Airways (ANA; tel. 800/235-9262 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0120/029-222 toll-free in Japan; www.anaskyweb.com). From Tokyo's Haneda and Narita airports, flight time is about 1 1/4 hours. A JAL fare is ¥20,600 ($172/£86) one-way.

Arriving at KIX -- Arriving at KIX, you experience Japan at its modern best. Constructed on a huge synthetic island 4.8km (3 miles) off the mainland in Osaka Bay and connected to the city by a six-lane highway and two-rail line bridge, this 24-hour airport boasts the latest in technology -- glass elevators ferry passengers to the four floors of the complex in an atrium setting, dozens of computers spread throughout the terminal provide Internet access for ¥100 (83¢/45p) per 10 minutes, and touch screens provide information in many languages. And, like the city itself, it's traveler-friendly: Signs are clear and abundant, and facilities -- which range from restaurants and shops to a post office (second floor south, near JAL counter; daily 8am-7pm), ATMs that accept foreign credit cards, a children's playroom in the international departure area (free of charge), and dental and medical clinics -- are seemingly endless.

Getting from KIX to Osaka -- Taxis are prohibitively expensive: Expect to spend at least ¥17,000 ($142/£71) for a cab to the city center. Easiest, especially if you have luggage, is the Kansai Airport Transportation Enterprise (tel. 072/461-1374; www.kate.co.jp), which provides bus service to major stations and hotels in Osaka. Most fares cost ¥1,300 ($11/£5.50), and tickets can be purchased at counters in the arrival lobby. Another bus service, the OCAT Shuttle 880 (tel. 06/6635-3030), travels from KIX to the Osaka City Air Terminal (a downtown bus station for shuttle buses going to the airport), next to JR Namba Station (the major train station in Namba) in the heart of Osaka, every 30 minutes for ¥880 ($7.35/£3.70).

If you're taking the train into Osaka (stations: Osaka, Tennoji, or Shin-Osaka) or even farther to Kyoto, simply walk through KIX's second-floor connecting concourse (baggage carts are designed to go on escalators and as far as train ticket gates) and board the limited express JR Haruka, which travels to Tennoji and Shin-Osaka stations before continuing to Kyoto. The fare to Shin-Osaka is ¥2,470 ($21/£11) for the 45-minute trip, with departures generally twice an hour. Slower is the JR rapid (JR Kanku Kaisoku), which travels from the airport to Tennoji and Osaka stations before continuing to Kobe. The 65-minute trip to Osaka Station costs ¥1,160 ($9.65/£4.85). Note: When returning to the airport from Osaka, make sure you're in a compartment that goes all the way to KIX; not all of them do.

If you a have a Japan Rail Pass, you can ride these trains for free. Exchange your voucher at the Kansai Airport (rail) Station on the third floor (daily 6am-11:30pm).

Next to the JR trains in the same station at the airport is the private Nankai Line, which has three types of trains to Namba Nankai Station. The sleek rapi:t a (pronounced "rapito alpha") train reaches Namba in 30 minutes. There's one train an hour, and ordinary reserved seats cost ¥1,390 ($12/£6). The rapi:t b ("rapito beta") at the same price stops at more stations, including Sakai, and takes 35 minutes. You can also take an ordinary Nankai Express Line for ¥890 ($7.40/£3.70) and reach Namba in 42 minutes.

Itami Airport -- If you're arriving on a domestic flight, chances are you'll arrive at Itami Airport (tel. 06/6856-6781), north of the city. Buses connect to various parts of Osaka; to Osaka Station, the ride takes 25 minutes and costs ¥620 ($5.15/£2.60).

By Train -- Osaka is 3 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen bullet train; tickets are ¥13,240 ($110/£55) for a reserved seat (the Nozomi Shinkansen, which is not valid with a Japan Rail Pass, is faster and more expensive). All Shinkansen bullet trains arrive at Shin-Osaka Station at the city's northern edge. To get from Shin-Osaka Station to Osaka Station and other points south, use the most convenient public transportation, the Midosuji Line subway; the subway stop at Osaka Station is called Umeda Station. JR trains also make runs between Shin-Osaka and Osaka stations.

If you haven't turned in your voucher for your Japan Rail Pass yet, you can do so at Osaka Station's or Shin-Osaka Station's Green Windows (daily 5:30am-11pm).

If you're arriving in Osaka from Kobe or Kyoto, the commuter lines, which will deliver you directly to Osaka Station in the heart of the city, are more convenient than the Shinkansen, which will deposit you at out-of-the-way Shin-Osaka Station.

By Bus -- JR night buses depart from both Tokyo (Yaesu exit; tel. 03/3215-1468) and Shinjuku (new south exit; tel. 03/5379-0874) stations several times nightly, arriving at Osaka Station the next morning. The trip from Tokyo takes about 8 hours and costs ¥8,610 ($72/£36). Cheaper yet are JR day buses from Tokyo Station to Osaka Station costing ¥6,000 ($50/£25), and a twice-a-night JR bus from Tokyo station and once a night from Shinjuku station costing only ¥5,000 ($42/£21). Tickets can be bought at any major JR station or at a travel agency.

Visitor Information

At the Airport -- The Kansai Tourist Information Center (tel. 072/456-6025; daily 9am-9pm Nov-Mar, 8:30am-8:30pm Apr-Oct) counters are near both the south and north end of the International Arrivals Lobby. The multilingual staff can help with general travel information about Japan and hotel reservations, and they offer brochures and maps.

In Town -- At Osaka Station, the Visitors Information Center Umeda (tel. 06/6345-2189; daily 8am-8pm) is at the east (Midosuji) exit of JR Osaka Station in a kiosk; the English-speaking staff gives out good maps of the city and can assist in securing a hotel room. Another center is just east of the central exit of Shin-Osaka Station on the third floor (tel. 06/6305-3311; daily 8am-8pm). Note that if you're arriving by Shinkansen, you'll be up on the fourth floor, so simply go down one flight to the tourist office. At JR Namba Station, you'll find the Visitors Information Center Namba (tel. 06/6211-3551; daily 8am-8pm) across from Starbucks in the basement of the Midosuji Grand Building (exit 24 of the underground) on the northwest corner of Midosuji and Senichimae. Other tourist information centers are located just outside Universal City Station (tel. 06/4804-3824; daily 9am-8pm) and at JR Tennoji Station (tel. 06/6774-3077; daily 8am-8pm).

To find out what's going on in Osaka, buy a copy of Kansai Time Out (www.kto.co.jp), a monthly magazine sold at bookstores for ¥300 ($2.50/£1.25) with information on sightseeing, festivals, restaurants, and other items of interest pertaining to Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto. Kansai Scene (www.kansaiscene.com) is a free bilingual magazine also available online with articles, reviews, listings, and information on the Kansai area.

Another source of information available free at tourist offices and at many hotels is Meet Osaka, a quarterly pamphlet with maps and information on sightseeing, Bunraku, festivals, concerts, and special exhibits and events. Look, too, for the free Osaka Guide, published every 2 months by the Osaka Convention and Tourism Bureau with information on special events, museum exhibitions, concert information, and even which nearby beaches are open in summer.

Finally, information on Osaka city is available on the Web at www.tourism.city.osaka.jp and at www.kansai.gr.jp, which gives information on the Kansai region.

Consulates -- Several embassies maintain consulates in Osaka, including Australia (tel. 06/6941-9271); Great Britain (tel. 06/6120-5600); and the United States (tel. 06/6315-5900).

Internet Access -- Internet access is available at two locations inside Osaka Station, in an area called Float Court near the Midosuji exit. Kinko's (tel. 06/6441-7870) is open daily 8am to 10pm and charges ¥210 ($1.75/87p) for 10 minutes of computer use. Café Quart [X-Time] Internet cafe (tel. 06/6442-5959) charges ¥100 (85¢/45p) for 15 minutes on the computer, but Wi-Fi is free with your own laptop, though you are expected to buy a drink.

Mail -- The Central Post Office, or Osaka Chuo Yubinkyoku (tel. 06/6347-8112), a minute's walk west of Osaka Station, is open 24 hours for mail and has ATMs for international credit cards.

Orientation

Osaka is divided into various wards, or ku, the most important of which for visitors are Kita-ku (North Ward), which encompasses the area around Osaka Station; and Chuo-ku (Central Ward), where you'll find Osaka Castle and Namba, the heart of the city. Some city maps divide Osaka by location: Kita (North), around Osaka Station; Minami (South), around Namba and Shinsaibashi; Higashi (East), around Osaka Castle; and Nishi (West) which is Osaska's bay area. Shin-Osaka Station, three subway stations north of Osaka (Umeda) Station, is a tourist wasteland, though it does have a few hotels.

Around Osaka Station -- Kita-ku embraces the area around Osaka and Umeda stations and includes many of the city's top hotels, the city's tallest buildings, lots of restaurants, and several shopping complexes, mostly underground.

Around Osaka Castle -- Osaka Castle, which lies to the east, is the historic center of the city. It's in Chuo-ku, the Central Ward, which stretches through the city center.

Minami/Namba -- Four subway stops south of Umeda Station is Namba (also referred to as Minami, or South Osaka), with a cluster of stations serving subways, JR trains, and Kintetsu and Nankai lines, all of which are connected to one another via underground passageways. This is the heart of the city, bustling with the spirit of old Osaka, where you'll find more hotels, Osaka's liveliest eating and entertainment district centered on a narrow street called Dotombori (also written Dotonbori), and major shopping areas such as the enclosed pedestrian streets Shinsaibashi-Suji and America-Mura with imported goods from America. Farther south is Den Den Town, Osaka's electronics district; and Dogayasuji, famous for restaurant supplies. Connecting Kita-ku with Namba is Osaka's main street, Midosuji Dori, a wide boulevard lined with gingko trees and name-brand shops.

Around Tennoji Park -- At the south end of the JR Loop Line is Tennoji-ku, which was once a thriving temple town with Shitennoji Temple at its center. In addition to a park with a zoo, it boasts Spa World, one of Japan's biggest and most luxurious public bathhouses.

Osaka Bay & Port -- West of the city around Osaka Bay is where you will find Universal Studios Japan and Universal CityWalk shopping and dining complex; Tempozan Harbour Village with its first-class aquarium, shopping complex, and Suntory Museum; and domestic and international ferry terminals.

Getting Around

Despite its size, I find Osaka easier to get around than other large Japanese cities because there are lots of English-language signs and information. The exception is Osaka Station, used for JR trains, and its adjoining Umeda Station, used by subway lines and private railway lines Hankyu and Hanshin. Underground passages and shopping arcades complicate navigation; there's no escaping -- you will get lost.

When exploring by foot, it helps to know that most roads running east and west end in "dori," while roads running north and south end in "suji," which means "avenue."

By Subway -- Osaka's user-friendly subway network is easy to use because all lines are color-coded and the station names are in English (even English-language announcements are on many lines). The red Midosuji Line is the most important one for visitors; it passes through Shin-Osaka Station and on to Umeda (the subway station next to Osaka Station), Shinsaibashi, Namba, and Tennoji. Fares begin at ¥200 ($1.65/85p) and increase according to the distance traveled.

Transportation Passes -- If you think you'll be traveling a lot by subway on a given day, consider purchasing a 1-Day Pass (Ichinichi-Joshaken) for ¥850 ($7.10/£3.55), which allows unlimited rides on subways and buses all day. On the 20th of each month (or on the following day if the 20th falls on a Sun or holiday) and every Friday, this pass (nicknamed No-My-Car-Day) costs just ¥600 ($5/£2.50) and offers slight discounts to several attractions. There's also a prepaid card for ¥3,000 ($25/£13) that gives you ¥3,300 ($28/£14) worth of travel on subways and buses in Osaka.

For sightseeing, there's also the Osaka Unlimited 1-Day Pass which costs ¥2,000 ($17/£8.50) and allows unlimited rides on subways, city buses, and private railways in Osaka plus free entrance to 24 attractions, including Osaka Castle, Floating Garden Observatory, and Osaka International Peace Center. If you're a visitor to Japan, you're also entitled to the Osaka Unlimited 2-Day Pass for ¥2,700 ($23/£12), valid only on subways but also providing the same free admission as the 1-Day pass but for 2 days; for this you must show your passport.

For trips outside Osaka, the Kansai Thru Pass (Surutto Kansai) allows foreigners (you must show your passport) to ride subways, private railways (no JR trains), and buses in Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe, with a 2-day pass costing ¥3,800 ($32/£16) and a 3-day pass costing ¥5,000 ($42/£21). Children pay half-price. You would have to do quite a bit of traveling to make this worthwhile.

The above passes can be purchased at KIX KAA Travel Desk (first floor international arrivals) or at the Visitor Information Centers in Osaka, Namba, or Shin Osaka.

For JR trains, there's the Kansai Area Pass available for 1 day (¥2,000/$17/£8.50) to 4 days (¥6,000/$50/£25), available at major JR stations in the Kansai area.

By JR Train -- A Japan Railways train called the Osaka Kanjo Line, or JR Loop Line, passes through Osaka Station and makes a loop around the central part of the city (similar to the Yamanote Line in Tokyo); take it to visit Osaka Castle. Fares begin at ¥120 ($1/50p).