Getting There

By Plane -- Osaka's Kansai International Airport (KIX; tel. 0724/ 55-2500) receives both domestic and international flights.

The two major domestic airlines that fly into KIX are All Nippon Airways (ANA; tel. 800/235-9262 in the U.S. and Canada, toll-free 0120/029-222 in Japan) and Japan Airlines (tel. 800/525-3663 in the U.S. and Canada, toll-free 0120/25-5971 in Japan). From Tokyo's Haneda and Narita airports, flight time is about 1 to 1 1/4 hours; at press time, the fare averaged ¥16,700 to ¥18,500 ($139-$154) one-way.

Arriving at KIX -- Arriving at KIX, you experience Japan at its modern best. Constructed on a huge synthetic island 4.8km (3 miles) off the mainland in Osaka Bay and connected to the city by a six-lane highway and two-rail line bridge, this 24-hour airport boasts the latest in technology -- glass elevators ferry passengers to the four floors of the complex in an atrium setting, touch screens provide information in many languages, and if you arrive on an international flight, you'll board the driverless, computer-controlled Wing Shuttle to get to the central terminal. And, like the city itself, it's traveler-friendly: Signs are clear and abundant, and facilities -- which range from restaurants and shops to a post office (2nd floor south, near JAL counter; open daily 8am-7pm), ATMs that accept foreign credit cards, a children's playroom in the international departure area (free of charge), the Kanku Lounge with Internet access (2nd floor north, tel. 0724/55-2092; open daily 9am-9pm), and dental and medical clinics -- are seemingly endless.

Getting from KIX to Osaka -- Taxis are prohibitively expensive: expect to spend $200 for a cab to the city center. Easiest, especially if you have luggage, is the Kansai Airport Transportation Enterprise (tel. 0724/61-1374; www.kate.co.jp), which provides bus service to major stations and hotels in Osaka. Most fares cost ¥1,300 ($11), and tickets can be purchased at counters in the arrival lobby. Another bus service, the OCAT Shuttle 880 (tel. 06/6635-3030), travels from KIX to the Osaka City Air Terminal (a downtown bus station for shuttle buses going to the airport), next to JR Namba Station (the major train station in Namba) in the heart of Osaka, every 30 minutes for ¥880 ($7.35).

If you're taking the train into Osaka (stations: Osaka, Tennoji, or Shin-Osaka) or even farther to Kyoto, simply walk through KIX's second-floor connecting concourse (baggage carts are designed to go on escalators and as far as train ticket gates) and board the limited express JR Haruka, which travels to Tennoji and Shin-Osaka stations before continuing to Kyoto. The fare to Shin-Osaka is ¥2,470 ($21) for the 45-minute trip, with departures generally twice an hour. Slower is the JR rapid (JR Kanku Kaisoku), which travels from the airport to Tennoji and Osaka stations before continuing to Kobe. The 65-minute trip to Osaka Station costs ¥1,160 ($9.70).

If you a have a Japan Rail Pass, you can ride these trains for free. Exchange your voucher at the Kansai Airport (rail) Station on the third floor (open daily 5:30am-11pm).

Next to the JR trains in the same station at the airport is the private Nankai Line, which has three types of trains to Namba Nankai Station. The sleek rapi:t a (pronounced rapito alpha) train reaches Namba in 30 minutes. There's one train an hour, and ordinary reserved seats cost ¥1,390 ($12). The rapi:t b (rapito beta) at the same price stops at more stations, including Sakai, and takes 35 minutes. You can also take an ordinary Nankai Express Line for ¥890 ($7.40) and reach Namba in 45 minutes.

Itami Airport -- If you're arriving on a domestic flight, chances are you'll arrive at Itami Airport (tel. 06/6856-6781), north of the city. Buses connect to various parts of Osaka; to Osaka Station, the ride takes 25 minutes and costs ¥620 ($5.20).

By Train -- Osaka is 2 3/4 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen bullet train; tickets are ¥13,240 ($110) for an unreserved seat (the Nozomi Shinkansen is more expensive). All Shinkansen bullet trains arrive at Shin-Osaka Station at the city's northern edge. To get from Shin-Osaka Station to Osaka Station and other points south, use the most convenient public transportation, the Midosuji Line subway; the subway stop at Osaka Station is called Umeda Station. JR trains also make runs between Shin-Osaka and Osaka stations.

If you haven't turned in your voucher for your Japan Rail Pass yet, you can do so at Osaka Station's or Shin-Osaka Station's Green Windows (open daily 5:30am-11pm), as well as at Osaka Station's Travel Information Satellite (TiS) on the main floor (daily 10am-7pm, to 6pm Sun and holidays) and at the Shin-Osaka Station's TiS on the second floor (daily 7am-8pm).

If you're arriving in Osaka from Kobe or Kyoto, the commuter lines, which will deliver you directly to Osaka Station in the heart of the city, are more convenient than the Shinkansen, which will deposit you at out-of-the-way Shin-Osaka Station.

By Bus -- JR night buses depart from both Tokyo (Yaesu exit; tel. 03/3215-1468) and Shinjuku (new south exit; tel. 03/5379-0874) stations several times nightly, arriving at Osaka Station the next morning. The trip from Tokyo takes about 8 hours and costs ¥8,610 ($80). Cheaper yet are JR day buses from Tokyo Station to Osaka Station costing ¥6,000 ($50), and once-a-night JR buses from both Tokyo and Shinjuku stations costing only ¥5,000 ($42). Tickets can be bought at any major JR station or at a travel agency.