Side Trips

Many of the textiles and crafts sold in Otavalo's markets are produced in the towns and villages nearby. Outside Otavalo, you can visit weavers' studios in Peguche, leather shops in Cotacachi, and woodcarving workshops in San Antonio de Ibarra.

Nature lovers should also take note: With snow-covered Volcán Cayambe overhead and green mountains in the distance, Imbabura province is a place of stunning beauty. There are several excellent hiking possibilities in the area, including one from Otavalo to the Peguche waterfall, and a 4-hour hike around Cuicocha, a picturesque crater lake. All the travel agencies and tour desks in Otavalo can arrange hiking, trekking, and horseback-riding excursions to a range of beautiful and off-the-beaten-path spots in the area, as well as guided tours to the towns and artisans workshops all around outlying towns and villages.

Runa Tupari Native Travel, located right on Plaza de los Ponchos between Sucre and Quiroga (tel. 06/2925-985; www.runatupari.com), and Dicency Viajes, on the corner of Sucre and Colón (tel. 06/2921-217), are the two best agencies in town. Both offer a wide range of tours, hikes, and adventure activities around the area, including guided tours to all the sites and destinations listed below as well as organized climbs of Mount Cotacachi (4,939m/16,200 ft.).

Cuicocha Lake -- Cuicocha is a sparkling blue crater-lake formed about 3,000 years ago, when the crater of the lake's namesake volcano collapsed during an eruption. The crater was covered with snow, which eventually melted and formed the lake. When the Incas came here, they thought that one of the islands in the middle looked like a cuy (guinea pig), hence the name Cuicocha (Guinea Pig Lake). You can take a motorized boat ride out and around the two islands in the middle of the lake, although you can't get off and hike on them. From the boat, along the shores and in the shallows, you will see totora, the reed used in this area for making baskets and floor coverings. A 20- to 40-minute boat ride should cost no more than $2 (£1.10) per person. Be sure to bring a warm sweater -- the wind here can be vicious.

I prefer hiking here to riding around on a boat (although you can certainly do both). An 8km (5-mile) trail loops around the rim of the crater, which takes about 4 hours to circle. But even if you walk along it for only 5 or 10 minutes, you'll be able to see Otavalo, Cotacachi, Cayambe, and all the volcanoes of Imbabura province. The setting and views are consistently striking. There's a small visitor center, near the end of the road leading from Quiroga to Cuicocha, which has some basic exhibits on the geography, geology, and local history of the lake, and serves as the administration center for this entrance into the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, of which Cuicocha is a part. Admission is $1 (55p) to visit the lake, $5 (£2.75) to visit other areas of the reserve. For more information on the Cotacachi-Cayapas reserve, see chapter 4.

Cuicocha Lake is located about 16km (10 miles) west of the town of Cotacachi. Although a paved road leads almost to the crater's edge, no public transportation is available from Otavalo directly to Cuicocha.

Tip: I recommend taking a guided tour here, since robberies of unaccompanied tourists have been reported. If you're doing it on your own, it's best to hire a taxi in Otavalo for the full trip, or to take a bus from Otavalo to Cotacachi or Quiroga, and then hire a cab. If you hire a cab, be sure to either pay for the wait time, or designate a time for your return ride.

Cotacachi -- Cotacachi is a sleepy little pueblo with incredible vistas. From here, you can see snow-covered Volcán Cayambe and the lush green mountains in the distance. But no one comes here for the views, because Cuicocha, about 10 minutes up the road, offers much better views -- perhaps the best in all of Imbabura province. People do, however, come here to shop. Cotacachi is famous for the leather stores that line Avenida 10 de Agosto. Offerings range from wallets and purses to shoes and clothing. Equestrian enthusiasts can shop for handmade saddles. The quality varies widely, but if you search hard enough you are bound to find some excellent work and great bargains. Cotacachi is about 15km (9 1/2 miles), or 15 minutes, from Otavalo. You can easily take a public bus from the station in Otavalo, or hire a taxi for about $6 (£3.30) each way.

Peguche -- Peguche is home to some of the best weavers in Ecuador. If you stop in the main square, you can start off by visiting the gallery and workshop of José Cotacachi, a master weaver. Peguche is also famous for its musical instruments. You'll find various shops that specialize in making single-reed flutes and rondadores (panpipes), as well as guitars and charangos (a mandolin-like instrument with five pairs of strings). Traditionally, the back of a charango is made from an armadillo shell. If you visit the town on a guided tour (which I highly recommend), you will explore the back streets of Peguche and visit the homes of some of the town's best weavers while learning about the old-fashioned process of spinning wool.

Just outside the town is Peguche Waterfall, a popular spot for tourists and locals alike. Peguche Waterfall is a tall and powerful torrent of water with lush vegetation on either side. Near the foot of the falls you'll find broad grassy areas with picnic tables and bench seating. Paths take you around the area, including one that goes to the top of the falls, with a sturdy wooden bridge taking you directly over the rushing water. The Peguche Waterfall plays an important role each year in the concurrent festivals of Inti Raymi and San Juan de Batista, which coincide with the summer solstice. Locals of both indigenous and Catholic faiths come to the falls for cleansing baths at this time of year.

A tiny town is located about 10 minutes by car from Otavalo. A taxi should cost $5 (£2.75) each way, and you can also walk to the falls from town in about 45 minutes. The route is well-worn and popular -- just ask one of the locals to point you in the right direction.

Mojanda Lakes -- After Cuicocha Lake, the Mojanda Lakes offer some of the best and most scenic hiking around Otavalo. The extinct volcano Fuya Fuya stands majestically above the three high mountain lakes, creating a beautiful setting. This is a great spot for bird-watching -- more than 100 species of birds are found here, including the giant hummingbird and the endangered Andean condor. Mojanda Lakes are located about 30 minutes south of Otavalo. A taxi here costs about $12 (£6.60) each way.

Parque Condor (Condor Park) -- Although you'll find Andean condors on display here, you'll find a whole host of other bird species as well. The emphasis is on raptors, with a variety of local raptor species represented, including various different owls. Several large birds are brought out by trainers and allowed to fly each day at 11:30am and 4:30pm. The park is set on a high hillside with a lovely view over Laguna San Pablo, the Otavalo Valley, and Volcán Imbabura. There's a small restaurant with great views, as well as a children's playground.

Parque Condor (tel. 06/2924-429; www.parquecondor.com) is located outside Otavalo near El Lechero and Peguche. It is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30am to 5pm. Admission is $2 (£1.10). A taxi ride here should cost no more than $4 (£2.20) each way.

Intag -- This is a region of beauty and conflict. The hills, mountains, valleys, and ravines here are covered in rich cloud forests, and they're home to a wide array of wildlife and hundreds of bird species. Small communities get by on subsistence farming and coffee production. But large mining interests, led by Ascendant Copper, have their eyes and heavy machinery aimed at the mineral wealth that lies beneath the ground, and the Intag region has been ground zero for a tense and sometimes violent clash between local activists, environmental organizations, and Ascendant Copper. The Intag Cloud Forest Reserve (tel. 2648-509; www.intagcloudforest.com) is owned and run by Carlos Zorrilla, who has been a leader in trying to preserve the environment and ecosystems here. The bird-watching is phenomenal, and Carlos and his crew are great guides. Accommodations are available in rustic rooms inside the reserve. Water is heated by passive solar energy and all meals are vegetarian. Depending upon the size of your group, rates run $40 to $60 (£22-£33) per person per day, including three meals and a guided hike daily.

The Intag Cloud Forest Reserve is located several hours over rough dirt roads from Otavalo. You need a prior reservation to stay here. When making your reservation, Carlos and company will arrange transportation, or give you detailed information on how to arrive in your own vehicle or via public transportation.

Those looking to volunteer or help out with the conservation efforts should contact DECOIN (www.decoin.org), an organization that works closely with indigenous communities in the region on a range of environmental and social issues, including mining and sustainable tourism.